The longer Ride
Posted: Thu Dec 12, 2019 2:55 pm
The longer Ride
Part one
Riding motorcycles, why do we do it! Is it to be just the simple answer, to get us from A to B, or is it more? Possibly that we enjoy the independence and also the freedom to explore, the moto will certainly do that job for us, although to some expats, even from the country they once came, it may be seen as a dangerous past time. But in Cambodia it must be deemed more of a suicidal pastime, let’s face it, those of us whom chose to ride, don’t have very much in our favour. But even though I say this it can be an unforgettable, and the most enjoyable adventure.
Let us step back and start at the beginning “the laws”, riding on the highways of the country. Simplicity, just pop into any hire shop, pay the rental fee leaving your passport as guarantee. Licence, 125cc and under was changed not that long ago, no licence required and no age restrictions, law is unclear if the same applies for westerners, we read what we can or cannot, and then just naturally follow suit. International driving permits are not excepted, you can take a test for a vehicle size over 125cc or can now do the exchange licence of your countries to obtain the now needed, according to the law, Cambodian licence. Also, road tax was applicable for a moto over 125cc now it is apparently exempt on all size motorcycles.
First obtaining the moto of your own, where to buy, from a friend, online, shop. If buying a new moto would you buy from the shop/dealer, more than likely with putting the registration in your own name, again a law from a few years ago, stating that foreigners could only now register new or unregistered vehicles in their own name. So, what of our second hand moto, not registered in our names, we hear stories of police taking them off expats, but it you obtain the papers needed and sale receipt, although registration not in your name, you are still the legal owner. It must be said that laws, regarding many things here are not always clear to understand.
So now you have your moto, time to go out on the roads, helmet on, it’s the law despite all the Khmer you will see without, also it may save your life. You will have noticed they drive here on the right, well the majority do, but some don’t. Instead of me writing all what needs to be said, you will soon find out for yourselves. Here are the Cambodian traffic laws for driving on the highway, enjoy and please take care.
https://roadsafecambodia.com/wp-content ... w_2007.pdf
The journey
It had been on the cards for some time that I would have to return to Koh Kong since finishing the business, now over a year back, time fly’s by when you’re having so much fun, or is it like my mum used to say time goes too fast has you get older. I sold some items in the bar and at the time was paid half the cost, with the promise of the balance to be sent on to me via Wing. That never happened, but it took me by surprise, due to me helping the person on occasions over past years, she herself being a person in business and would state her terms and agreement, always paid when she said. My lady said it was because we left, she took it as losing a friend, I saw it more like I was not there so in her way she forgot me quickly.
I had also left my generator and 3 power tools behind, although in safe capable hands, being that of an old Khmer gentleman that we become friends, possibly more so due to our shared interests in woodworking. What drew me to the most interesting point of his work and skill, he would use the mortise and tenon joint, also different types of simple Lapped Joints, he only had old basic tools, consisting of two sized chisels, a small hand planer, hammer and small saw. Basic joints but still nice to see, in today’s world that simple craft has been on its way out for years, being replaced by DIY dowel and location pins, screws and panel pins, new easy affordable furniture firstly by the likes of MFI and now Ikea, and the later I like, due to me converting some items of furnishing’s to suit my own needs in a past hobby of Aquaponics, they sell shelving and units, good plastic tub items, only leaving me to buy pumps and lighting (LEDs) for an indoor unit of educational values, so I am not knocking it, also due to the self-assemble items it was very much available to all. I don’t think long for this country going similar ways, if the sale of apartments excels.
The longer Ride, well not really intended, I got over to central market hoping to get the mini-bus with the bike on the back door. Unfortunately, the driver I had used on past occasions was on his alternate journey, coming to the city instead of going. The highest fare I have paid in the past was $23 for two and the moto. The van going was waiting still for passengers, he would not be getting my custom since asking me for the fare of a mere $75. I have ridden the distance on several times over past years, the first possibly several years back after buying my first bike in Phnom Penh. I still did the journey in one day despite the rear shock failing on the hilly sections toward my destination.
Anyway the adventure begins down Kampuchea Krom Blvd (128) stopping for a good coffee, and now the day was hot, the point I asked my pillion passenger if she would think it better to get the mini-bus in the morning, we could go have a nice meal in town and return home for tonight, I tried but she was having none of it, there is nothing that equals to a stubborn senseless Khmer girl. Traffic too was very busy I noticed while sipping my latte, I would have preferred a strong Cambodian coffee with sweet milk has I was looking for the first time of seeing a new model Rolls Royce creeping along with the backed-up traffic. It was not long before we were to be in that rat race in the direction of Road 4 leaving the city behind and hopefully the congestion. Passing the Airport my phone was ringing on and on, but I can’t do the same as the other people passing by us weaving in and out of the heavy traffic one handed due to their phone pressed in the ear or in front of ones face giving them ability to text, and why! if anyone has the answer do they all think they are Barry Sheen on the last lap with Kenny Roberts by their side? Young school girls scare me stupid as they continually cut me up, again at times I forget that I should not be riding on the road. A deep breath and I am parked up at the roadside answering the phone to the minibus driver still having room since his customers did a no show, but now he cannot understand English, I pass her the phone, $50! I have been here too long one would think at times, why do they think because you are with a Khmer girl, that they can talk the girl into what they too want, thinking they are entitled to a share of the money too. Onwards and a few photo stops on the way passed the factories, thankful it was Sunday.
Kampong Speu is good for tonight’s sleep with a nice hotel room at $7 The Doung Meas with a good place to eat up and across the road. The Lotus Coffee good and clean, and nice seating in the garden, also when they close and the staff depart the security guard does not mind you are still sitting there in the cool of the evening. It’s one of the places that I consider a little gem to visit on a journey, one of the places that will not disappoint.
Unlike the first time I was forced to stop doing this journey in the opposite direction and due to heavy rainfall.
We walked into the Chinese establishment over the road, opposite the Lotus Coffee, the place was very busy with locals, I sensed the disapproval from staff, on us bursting in like a pair of drown rats out of the sewer, the fact was the waitresses headed away from us, the management approached handing me a iPad menu, my lady said the spring rolls look good! With my reply of “they should” on the menu they are the cheapest of veg starters at $6 the rest of the menu read starters $6-8 mains $30-40. We left the place quicker than we had made the entrance, but I think that is what was expected, and the rain had stopped, now the smiles were back once again.
There’s cable television in the room so chance to see a good movie in English also catch up on the latest news with the BBC. Down by the river and the night market there are plenty of places to get a snack or meal soft drink, or a cold beer.
Morning and we are heading up Road 4 once again, and its busy in areas, especially the little hamlets on route, but riding a moto you must always be alert of your surroundings and situation, looking in your mirrors is important too, be aware what is coming behind, SUVs come quickly. There is a highway code and also driving laws, but very little of the rules seem to be followed, and it’s rare for any other road user to consider you, or even possibly see you, It makes me think at times, I wonder if they even consider themselves and their own safety. Be always be prepared for anything, even at times to leave the road, more so when the oncoming vehicle is heading towards you on your side of the road with his horn blurting and headlights flashing, he probably could not stop at the speed if it is a large truck or articulated vehicle anyway, so hope there’s nothing in the way on your right side, anything parked or oncoming moto, because now is the time to get off the road out of his way, nor thinking is there still room for me, likewise there is no playing chicken, only serious injury or your life ending would be the result of if you stayed where you are.
I find the views of the area interesting when you have the chance to look away from the road, past the large clothing factories and the many mango plantations, with the small fruit sellers, with their stalls along the roadside selling produce of the season. I have noticed in this area, also there are a few turkeys around at this time, but no snow men.
There are plenty of places to stop if at times it all gets a little crazy or just a stretch of the body, or ease the usual pain in the bum, always making sure to refresh your body and mind, not forgetting to drink plenty, don’t get dehydrated in the heat of the day. It is also worth considering your route and estimated time scale of departure and arrival, that maybe easier in the west or the country you used to once reside. Here! I tend to leave this open, my arrival will be when I get there, meaning that there is nothing that pressing to set a time in stone, if I needed to be somewhere at a certain time, for any other reason I would have travelled via taxi or bus. That is also a consideration on a journey, to put the moto and yourself on a mini-bus, part or full journey it’s up to you, like in this story don’t pay too much, consider the moto the same price has the passenger fare, I find that to be the norm, yes! Barang price, add a few dollars if bargaining, some places this happens and others it doesn’t, at bus stations or busy pickup points try to cut out the fixer if possible, if he tends to be asking too much money, but at times these guys can be reasonable and more helpful, they can sometimes get you sorted and quickly on your way, best is to have a phone number of a driver, bus you have previously used.
Don’t forget to fill up too on these long journeys, I would not like to push any moto in this heat because I ran out of fuel. Take your time before leaving the filling station, and just have a look over the moto, make sure everything is still in place and more so, nothing loose or missing. In the past I have found nuts to work themselves loose on these rough roads. I tend to do a full inspection after and before I take a journey, also do any maintenance that maybe needed, electrics, brakes, chain adjustment, tyre wear and pressure, oil and fluid level, the later I would take the moto into a shop and let them change the oil being there is no real difference in price if you buy the oil and do it yourself, only thing is you are left with the old oil to dispose of doing it yourself, at times I take a small used water bottle and ask the guys at the shop to fill the bottle with the used old oil from the moto, then I can use this at times to oil the chain.
48km from the start this morning and the highlight of the day, just coming up on my righthand side.
We are at Traeng Trayueng there is a row of restaurants and can be a busy area with the buses stopping to feed and water their passengers, there is a good choice of food here for most budgets, the one I now prefer is one that has good western food. It goes by the name “The Stop Café” what draws me to this place? The Meat Pies and on the menu it as a description of the dish, such as the Shepperd’s Pie being from Yorkshire like myself, but don’t get too excited at times it can be hit or miss, not on quality but availability, but there is always another alternative dish, a little bit middle of the road on price too, again there are plenty other restaurants to choose from with high or low prices.
To the right there is Kirirom National Park and to the left there are hills and the famous Bokor in the background, now just a tad along the road you come to Grandmother Mao Pichnil a place of worship situated at the top of the hill and near borders of the Provence’s, the place is highly respected by the Khmer, praying for safety and luck for their onward journey, holy water is available too, it does make one think about that all want to be safe, but leading up to and from there, how many demons are driving on the road! It may be a good place to also hand out copies of safe driving. So onwards down the steep hillside road were workers wash the dirt away from the big trucks, or cool them down with their overloads struggling to get up to the top. On the hills and corners Khmer seem to have some respect of the danger they can impose, so there seems to be a little pleasant rest or breathing time, but don’t relax for long, soon it will be once again flat and the madness will return with drivers right feet pressed down to the floor, but then we must think this is one of the main highways in the kingdom.
Then its Srei Ambil Roundabout taking the right fork to leave the busy Road 4 on to the more relaxing route of Road 48 and now entering Koh Kong Province. A little way up is Boeng Preav where the road splits into Srei Ambil, also there is Lim Long Gas Station where I will fill up if needed and good washrooms, handy to wash away some of that dust from the face, nice and refreshing, a good start to continue on the journey alongside the Cardamom Mountains.
Road 48 or the proper name (National Road) NR48 is a nice road to travel, but when it’s not good it will then certainly bite back, it has had its moments with me over the past. I have travelled this road on many occasions and on a various moto’s, it is a road to have respect for, also try to keep up with the conditions of the road surface and repair, also the weather is worth consideration, you may want to look at the time of day that you may also be traveling.
One year back this is how the road was before Sre Ambel. My lady desired to walk a little.
Sre Ambel is worth a look if you wish to do so, or have the time, it its self is a small market town with a few places to eat and a couple of guest houses, may not be much of an attraction, but it is worth the time to see typical Khmer people farmers and fishing men, shop keepers going about their daily chores, I find it to be a very pleasant place.
Bridge counting now, 4 of them to go over on route to Koh Kong, the first we approach is Sre Ambel Bridge, at this point we are now 155km from our starting point of Phnom Penn, and a mere 136km from or destination of Koh Kong. It is worth pulling up once on the bridge, and if lucky there will be a nice cool breeze blowing down river, the scenery is good and worth the time, people usually fish up on the bridges early evenings and the younger generation on their Honda dreams will meet and mingle with friends, some will be doing their courting too.
Leaving the bridge behind the landscape is pretty flat with vast open space to the left and mostly rice crops, buffalo submerged in the pools of water, typical wooden farmhouses on stilted legs. there are also fruit plantations and pepper plants slightly hid from view with the type of tree to give them protection from the elements. I have always been quite fond of this area; I find it somewhat pleasing and a very a very tranquil place, but then again there is new buildings being built, like most areas nowadays. I think the expats whom have found the place where they are happy and want to be are very lucky. I am still looking (slowly now) and at times in hope, I would hope it is due to liking the country. Although sometimes I think to myself the place, that I look for may possibly not be here after all, only time will tell.
But that’s what I enjoy about traveling by moto, you tend to see more then on the bus where you may get a glance, but being on the moto you can stop and look whenever you wish to do so. Approaching the 2nd bridge over the Preak Piphot River at Botum Sakor you will hear and see the many bird houses, even more so on the other side of the bridge in the small hamlet of mostly Muslim community. Bird houses, that was the main reason I left the bar in Koh Kong, there were 5 of them, it was not the birds, but the electronic bird callers that came on at 4.30am until sometimes 10pm in the evening, I have never listened to birds of that description call so loud, I would say the people that owned and run them had no clue about their new venture, it would be the attraction of the monies that may have been back in the offering. I understood demand had dropped off at one point, leaving the nests at a low, down to half price on the kilo, now the price was up once more, and not that far off the high price it once was in the year’s past. Two hotels on the street had built new top floors, turned those floors into bird houses. Some of the older hotels in town had been completely renovated for keeping birds, hopefully being a better income than that of paying guests. I tried to blot out the constant noise with music at times, but the end result is the surrounding noise of loud tweeting was just too much for me, and would eventually with no doubt, keep my customers away too.
This I decided was the place to stay for the night once more, but away from the bird house near the river and lower end of town. We found a good room at the far end of the small town, the thing you may not find some of the accommodation on the likes of Agoda or other such sites, so it’s a case of just looking, I was hoping to go a little more to a place I once stayed some time ago, that place had no sign nor any indication of being a guest house, it is like I say just asking and being lucky. The reason for stopping the night, were the once again unfortunate conditions of the road, pothole after pothole and some parts no surface at all only stone chips that are unfriendly when you have only two wheels. I have done the journey in the day in either direction in the past, but now I have also learned when to call it a day.
In the morning I checked over the bike, there are four bolts holding down the handlebar clamp, one was one inch adrift with the plastic cap still attached, I removed the caps and discarded them has I retightened down the bolts holding the bars in place. That’s what the rough roads can do has a result, it’s always worth the little time to look over the bike when on a journey. My partner had walked up to the road to find breakfast, hot coffee and Crapes! Pancakes in my language, she had done well, being that you won’t usually find western dishes in these places. I am not so opposed to Khmer food, but then again it is never on the top of my good food list. I too am not really a good breakfast person, unless it happened to be a British fry up, coffee is good. If must, I can cope well in the mornings with egg, and rice or rice soup with possibly chicken, but I don’t like chewing on bones, not early morning anyway.
It was not that far up the road where we stayed before has it happened, but I was unsure of the distance last night, but no problem it’s good to know where you can stop and sleep for the night if or when needed. Up to now I have stayed at three places from there down to Highway 4. I found after there for a while prices for accommodation was a little expensive to the tune of $50 per night for some. The places I were to stay priced at $7 fan $12 aircon, not forgetting I’m only using the room while I am traveling, but the occasions have called for the stop, be it the weather or more easy for my lady, traveling by bike is not for everyone, so at times it will make the difference if it’s a nice room with some comfort and Wi-Fi and LCD TV, the rooms have served the purpose, being adequate and of reasonable price.
It is a very pleasant morning and the roads are never busy on this route, but still you must look out for the other road users, minibuses, and more so the large bus, they tend to travel at some speed coming from behind you, it’s more rare that the oncoming traffic will be on your side of the road unless there is an obstacle making them deviate, such as potholes or cows. Yes, watch out for farm animals and pedestrians, also dogs in the evenings. Many people I know would not travel these roads in darkness, too be honest I have on lots of occasions and don’t really mind, the traffic at night is sparse to say the least. The reason stopping last night is the problem seeing the bad road surface.
On the left is Union Road going to the resort Dara Sakor, and the National Park. I have at times wanted to go take a look at the area down there, but its 59km from the turn off on road 48, and the thought is there, if I should be turned away it’s a round trip of 118km for nothing. There is Kiri Sakor and King island, but I don’t think the hotel is open now. Before I was on a friend’s boat, I got the impression he would not get too close.
Now the road starts to climb steeply with a few twists and turns. Up near the top of the hill is what you could call a remote viewing point, and if you blink you would miss it. Here I will nearly always stop for an hour or two, the view, to put it only mildly is incredible sight, probably the best in the area, not really worth riding past, even if you was to stay five minutes it would be worth the time, just to see the vast forest that continues as far has one can see, all the way to the horizon in one’s possible view. It is also worth calling at a roadside stall beforehand to buy some snacks, fruit and drinks, it can get hot in the exposed location, although there is a shelter to help take a little heat away.
A Guide to Cambodia's Cardamom Mountains
Spanning more than 4.4 million hectares of rainforest in southwestern Cambodia, the Cardamom Mountains remains Southeast Asia’s largest remaining rainforest. Inhabited by a swathe of endangered wildlife, the expansive woodland is also home to about 25,000 people, many of whom are ethnic minorities.
https://theculturetrip.com/asia/cambodi ... mountains/
Then the journey onward towards the 3rd bridge at Trapeang Rung, after the bridge there are plenty of roadside restaurants, but what is important now is to make sure the moto had fuel, from here to the next bridge there is not many more places, and it also depends on the time at this point onwards. Now there is enough potholes to be concerned about and I am happy we have the daylight. It was a year or more on this section I had my troubles.
The so called pothole, was then to resemble bomb creators which many you could ride the full bike in and down the hole to a depth of two feet or so, and back out, then into one more and then repeat on and on, it was hard going at times, with a lot of parts also under water, no way of seeing to the bottom of the holes, it was to come in sections, like it was some kind of training or course, testing the drivers/riders abilities and control. We now seemed to clear the worst and on tarmac of sorts, but then we would be faced again with the test once more, but, more so over and over again, it was somewhat of a challenge. Some had also failed the challenge with vehicles left, abandoned.
Where the road flattened out I stopped at the roadside store for water, it was thirsty work, then, later riding away I was now strangely feeling the deflation of the rear tyre, concerns for the rim of the wheel we could not press on, unless we can get a repair there is no going on to Koh Kong with this moto. I said to her “ride steady back to the shop” she was lighter than myself, also she is very capable of riding bikes with a clutch. I had pushed the bike already for quite some way, down the hill, the shop was now also back in view. The shop owner tried to wake up the local bike repair man, but to no avail. He informed us due to him and his friend had been buying cases of Angkor from him, he didn’t think he would have been in a fit state anyway to do the work. I had inspected the damage, due to the two gaping holes that were about the size of my hand, there was certainly need of fitting a new tyre, he more than likely would not stock one anyhow for this bike. So now I ask the shop keeper for beer and if he would like to join me in a can or two. My partner was busy and enjoying the time chatting too his wife, she said we can leave the bike here inside, but there is nowhere here or around for us to stay, now the darkness of the night was drawing in. Yes, with no more options, I was back to hitching once more. That is if anyone drives past, the road was so quite now.
Time seemed slow, and I was on my second can, headlights in the far distance, and coming closer, we got out in the road a little way trying to wave the truck down to stop, the driver was having none of it and drove on by. Shit a 3rd beer then, my lady bought me out a pot noodle, it was appreciated has it was getting a little cold out there now. We sat on the raised platform of the bamboo pagoda outside, were I placed the beer down and tucked into the warm pot of delight that could be my only meal of tonight before I sleep for the night where I am sat. In this kind of situation, you have to make the best of what you have, and all we had was, not very much. I have the mind that we don’t have any control of such now, and what will be will be. I am still tackling the hot noodles, but they are spicy too, turning to her I said if a truck comes go out in the road alone and show the driver a bit of leg like on the Benny Hill show, then when he stops, I’ll grab the bag. She had no idea what I was talking about, another truck went by, so was the time about 10pm now. My lady was feeling the cold chill of the night air, putting on more cloths from the rucksack, soon it was time for the waterproof coat it was raining lightly, if the rain was to turn heavy, we would have problems. Lights again heading our way, I walked onto the road there were two cars approaching I waved my arms, flagging them down hoping they would stop. The first one did, alongside us, with the other one pulling up over the road, we explained the situation, the driver said it was up to his customer, he was the driver of the taxi with a fare from Sihanoukville going to Koh Kong. The passenger was a very attractive Chinese lady, she said OK. There was a little commotion with the two drivers at this point, when in the car the driver explained he was sorry that he had to charge us $10 for the fare even that the young lady had hired the taxi. I understood it was because of the other driver’s greed, but it did not matter because of our situation I would have expected to pay, now the bomb holes were back once again.
But this time we were doing fine it was not nearly has bad this time, but I wonder how long it will take to do the repairs, would the surface be allowed to get like that once again, problem is once the surface is broken it lets the water in and under the road and then there is no stopping it from just coming apart, that was a year ago, now it was starting again, but then again it is toward the end of the wet season.
Now we had come to the downhill towards the 4th bridge of Tatai. There was no road surface here, it had been washed away by the rains and the heavy-laden trucks had helped it along its way also putting in large ruts too, difficult on the moto, picking the best way and trying not to slide on the gravel now too darkness was drawing in. Over the last bridge and not much road up the other side, I was riding slow the rest of the way into Koh Kong, we would happily dine at my Khmer friend’s restaurant at the end of the first leg of the journey. Tomorrow is the beginning of a new day.
Part one
Riding motorcycles, why do we do it! Is it to be just the simple answer, to get us from A to B, or is it more? Possibly that we enjoy the independence and also the freedom to explore, the moto will certainly do that job for us, although to some expats, even from the country they once came, it may be seen as a dangerous past time. But in Cambodia it must be deemed more of a suicidal pastime, let’s face it, those of us whom chose to ride, don’t have very much in our favour. But even though I say this it can be an unforgettable, and the most enjoyable adventure.
Let us step back and start at the beginning “the laws”, riding on the highways of the country. Simplicity, just pop into any hire shop, pay the rental fee leaving your passport as guarantee. Licence, 125cc and under was changed not that long ago, no licence required and no age restrictions, law is unclear if the same applies for westerners, we read what we can or cannot, and then just naturally follow suit. International driving permits are not excepted, you can take a test for a vehicle size over 125cc or can now do the exchange licence of your countries to obtain the now needed, according to the law, Cambodian licence. Also, road tax was applicable for a moto over 125cc now it is apparently exempt on all size motorcycles.
First obtaining the moto of your own, where to buy, from a friend, online, shop. If buying a new moto would you buy from the shop/dealer, more than likely with putting the registration in your own name, again a law from a few years ago, stating that foreigners could only now register new or unregistered vehicles in their own name. So, what of our second hand moto, not registered in our names, we hear stories of police taking them off expats, but it you obtain the papers needed and sale receipt, although registration not in your name, you are still the legal owner. It must be said that laws, regarding many things here are not always clear to understand.
So now you have your moto, time to go out on the roads, helmet on, it’s the law despite all the Khmer you will see without, also it may save your life. You will have noticed they drive here on the right, well the majority do, but some don’t. Instead of me writing all what needs to be said, you will soon find out for yourselves. Here are the Cambodian traffic laws for driving on the highway, enjoy and please take care.
https://roadsafecambodia.com/wp-content ... w_2007.pdf
The journey
It had been on the cards for some time that I would have to return to Koh Kong since finishing the business, now over a year back, time fly’s by when you’re having so much fun, or is it like my mum used to say time goes too fast has you get older. I sold some items in the bar and at the time was paid half the cost, with the promise of the balance to be sent on to me via Wing. That never happened, but it took me by surprise, due to me helping the person on occasions over past years, she herself being a person in business and would state her terms and agreement, always paid when she said. My lady said it was because we left, she took it as losing a friend, I saw it more like I was not there so in her way she forgot me quickly.
I had also left my generator and 3 power tools behind, although in safe capable hands, being that of an old Khmer gentleman that we become friends, possibly more so due to our shared interests in woodworking. What drew me to the most interesting point of his work and skill, he would use the mortise and tenon joint, also different types of simple Lapped Joints, he only had old basic tools, consisting of two sized chisels, a small hand planer, hammer and small saw. Basic joints but still nice to see, in today’s world that simple craft has been on its way out for years, being replaced by DIY dowel and location pins, screws and panel pins, new easy affordable furniture firstly by the likes of MFI and now Ikea, and the later I like, due to me converting some items of furnishing’s to suit my own needs in a past hobby of Aquaponics, they sell shelving and units, good plastic tub items, only leaving me to buy pumps and lighting (LEDs) for an indoor unit of educational values, so I am not knocking it, also due to the self-assemble items it was very much available to all. I don’t think long for this country going similar ways, if the sale of apartments excels.
The longer Ride, well not really intended, I got over to central market hoping to get the mini-bus with the bike on the back door. Unfortunately, the driver I had used on past occasions was on his alternate journey, coming to the city instead of going. The highest fare I have paid in the past was $23 for two and the moto. The van going was waiting still for passengers, he would not be getting my custom since asking me for the fare of a mere $75. I have ridden the distance on several times over past years, the first possibly several years back after buying my first bike in Phnom Penh. I still did the journey in one day despite the rear shock failing on the hilly sections toward my destination.
Anyway the adventure begins down Kampuchea Krom Blvd (128) stopping for a good coffee, and now the day was hot, the point I asked my pillion passenger if she would think it better to get the mini-bus in the morning, we could go have a nice meal in town and return home for tonight, I tried but she was having none of it, there is nothing that equals to a stubborn senseless Khmer girl. Traffic too was very busy I noticed while sipping my latte, I would have preferred a strong Cambodian coffee with sweet milk has I was looking for the first time of seeing a new model Rolls Royce creeping along with the backed-up traffic. It was not long before we were to be in that rat race in the direction of Road 4 leaving the city behind and hopefully the congestion. Passing the Airport my phone was ringing on and on, but I can’t do the same as the other people passing by us weaving in and out of the heavy traffic one handed due to their phone pressed in the ear or in front of ones face giving them ability to text, and why! if anyone has the answer do they all think they are Barry Sheen on the last lap with Kenny Roberts by their side? Young school girls scare me stupid as they continually cut me up, again at times I forget that I should not be riding on the road. A deep breath and I am parked up at the roadside answering the phone to the minibus driver still having room since his customers did a no show, but now he cannot understand English, I pass her the phone, $50! I have been here too long one would think at times, why do they think because you are with a Khmer girl, that they can talk the girl into what they too want, thinking they are entitled to a share of the money too. Onwards and a few photo stops on the way passed the factories, thankful it was Sunday.
Kampong Speu is good for tonight’s sleep with a nice hotel room at $7 The Doung Meas with a good place to eat up and across the road. The Lotus Coffee good and clean, and nice seating in the garden, also when they close and the staff depart the security guard does not mind you are still sitting there in the cool of the evening. It’s one of the places that I consider a little gem to visit on a journey, one of the places that will not disappoint.
Unlike the first time I was forced to stop doing this journey in the opposite direction and due to heavy rainfall.
We walked into the Chinese establishment over the road, opposite the Lotus Coffee, the place was very busy with locals, I sensed the disapproval from staff, on us bursting in like a pair of drown rats out of the sewer, the fact was the waitresses headed away from us, the management approached handing me a iPad menu, my lady said the spring rolls look good! With my reply of “they should” on the menu they are the cheapest of veg starters at $6 the rest of the menu read starters $6-8 mains $30-40. We left the place quicker than we had made the entrance, but I think that is what was expected, and the rain had stopped, now the smiles were back once again.
There’s cable television in the room so chance to see a good movie in English also catch up on the latest news with the BBC. Down by the river and the night market there are plenty of places to get a snack or meal soft drink, or a cold beer.
Morning and we are heading up Road 4 once again, and its busy in areas, especially the little hamlets on route, but riding a moto you must always be alert of your surroundings and situation, looking in your mirrors is important too, be aware what is coming behind, SUVs come quickly. There is a highway code and also driving laws, but very little of the rules seem to be followed, and it’s rare for any other road user to consider you, or even possibly see you, It makes me think at times, I wonder if they even consider themselves and their own safety. Be always be prepared for anything, even at times to leave the road, more so when the oncoming vehicle is heading towards you on your side of the road with his horn blurting and headlights flashing, he probably could not stop at the speed if it is a large truck or articulated vehicle anyway, so hope there’s nothing in the way on your right side, anything parked or oncoming moto, because now is the time to get off the road out of his way, nor thinking is there still room for me, likewise there is no playing chicken, only serious injury or your life ending would be the result of if you stayed where you are.
I find the views of the area interesting when you have the chance to look away from the road, past the large clothing factories and the many mango plantations, with the small fruit sellers, with their stalls along the roadside selling produce of the season. I have noticed in this area, also there are a few turkeys around at this time, but no snow men.
There are plenty of places to stop if at times it all gets a little crazy or just a stretch of the body, or ease the usual pain in the bum, always making sure to refresh your body and mind, not forgetting to drink plenty, don’t get dehydrated in the heat of the day. It is also worth considering your route and estimated time scale of departure and arrival, that maybe easier in the west or the country you used to once reside. Here! I tend to leave this open, my arrival will be when I get there, meaning that there is nothing that pressing to set a time in stone, if I needed to be somewhere at a certain time, for any other reason I would have travelled via taxi or bus. That is also a consideration on a journey, to put the moto and yourself on a mini-bus, part or full journey it’s up to you, like in this story don’t pay too much, consider the moto the same price has the passenger fare, I find that to be the norm, yes! Barang price, add a few dollars if bargaining, some places this happens and others it doesn’t, at bus stations or busy pickup points try to cut out the fixer if possible, if he tends to be asking too much money, but at times these guys can be reasonable and more helpful, they can sometimes get you sorted and quickly on your way, best is to have a phone number of a driver, bus you have previously used.
Don’t forget to fill up too on these long journeys, I would not like to push any moto in this heat because I ran out of fuel. Take your time before leaving the filling station, and just have a look over the moto, make sure everything is still in place and more so, nothing loose or missing. In the past I have found nuts to work themselves loose on these rough roads. I tend to do a full inspection after and before I take a journey, also do any maintenance that maybe needed, electrics, brakes, chain adjustment, tyre wear and pressure, oil and fluid level, the later I would take the moto into a shop and let them change the oil being there is no real difference in price if you buy the oil and do it yourself, only thing is you are left with the old oil to dispose of doing it yourself, at times I take a small used water bottle and ask the guys at the shop to fill the bottle with the used old oil from the moto, then I can use this at times to oil the chain.
48km from the start this morning and the highlight of the day, just coming up on my righthand side.
We are at Traeng Trayueng there is a row of restaurants and can be a busy area with the buses stopping to feed and water their passengers, there is a good choice of food here for most budgets, the one I now prefer is one that has good western food. It goes by the name “The Stop Café” what draws me to this place? The Meat Pies and on the menu it as a description of the dish, such as the Shepperd’s Pie being from Yorkshire like myself, but don’t get too excited at times it can be hit or miss, not on quality but availability, but there is always another alternative dish, a little bit middle of the road on price too, again there are plenty other restaurants to choose from with high or low prices.
To the right there is Kirirom National Park and to the left there are hills and the famous Bokor in the background, now just a tad along the road you come to Grandmother Mao Pichnil a place of worship situated at the top of the hill and near borders of the Provence’s, the place is highly respected by the Khmer, praying for safety and luck for their onward journey, holy water is available too, it does make one think about that all want to be safe, but leading up to and from there, how many demons are driving on the road! It may be a good place to also hand out copies of safe driving. So onwards down the steep hillside road were workers wash the dirt away from the big trucks, or cool them down with their overloads struggling to get up to the top. On the hills and corners Khmer seem to have some respect of the danger they can impose, so there seems to be a little pleasant rest or breathing time, but don’t relax for long, soon it will be once again flat and the madness will return with drivers right feet pressed down to the floor, but then we must think this is one of the main highways in the kingdom.
Then its Srei Ambil Roundabout taking the right fork to leave the busy Road 4 on to the more relaxing route of Road 48 and now entering Koh Kong Province. A little way up is Boeng Preav where the road splits into Srei Ambil, also there is Lim Long Gas Station where I will fill up if needed and good washrooms, handy to wash away some of that dust from the face, nice and refreshing, a good start to continue on the journey alongside the Cardamom Mountains.
Road 48 or the proper name (National Road) NR48 is a nice road to travel, but when it’s not good it will then certainly bite back, it has had its moments with me over the past. I have travelled this road on many occasions and on a various moto’s, it is a road to have respect for, also try to keep up with the conditions of the road surface and repair, also the weather is worth consideration, you may want to look at the time of day that you may also be traveling.
One year back this is how the road was before Sre Ambel. My lady desired to walk a little.
Sre Ambel is worth a look if you wish to do so, or have the time, it its self is a small market town with a few places to eat and a couple of guest houses, may not be much of an attraction, but it is worth the time to see typical Khmer people farmers and fishing men, shop keepers going about their daily chores, I find it to be a very pleasant place.
Bridge counting now, 4 of them to go over on route to Koh Kong, the first we approach is Sre Ambel Bridge, at this point we are now 155km from our starting point of Phnom Penn, and a mere 136km from or destination of Koh Kong. It is worth pulling up once on the bridge, and if lucky there will be a nice cool breeze blowing down river, the scenery is good and worth the time, people usually fish up on the bridges early evenings and the younger generation on their Honda dreams will meet and mingle with friends, some will be doing their courting too.
Leaving the bridge behind the landscape is pretty flat with vast open space to the left and mostly rice crops, buffalo submerged in the pools of water, typical wooden farmhouses on stilted legs. there are also fruit plantations and pepper plants slightly hid from view with the type of tree to give them protection from the elements. I have always been quite fond of this area; I find it somewhat pleasing and a very a very tranquil place, but then again there is new buildings being built, like most areas nowadays. I think the expats whom have found the place where they are happy and want to be are very lucky. I am still looking (slowly now) and at times in hope, I would hope it is due to liking the country. Although sometimes I think to myself the place, that I look for may possibly not be here after all, only time will tell.
But that’s what I enjoy about traveling by moto, you tend to see more then on the bus where you may get a glance, but being on the moto you can stop and look whenever you wish to do so. Approaching the 2nd bridge over the Preak Piphot River at Botum Sakor you will hear and see the many bird houses, even more so on the other side of the bridge in the small hamlet of mostly Muslim community. Bird houses, that was the main reason I left the bar in Koh Kong, there were 5 of them, it was not the birds, but the electronic bird callers that came on at 4.30am until sometimes 10pm in the evening, I have never listened to birds of that description call so loud, I would say the people that owned and run them had no clue about their new venture, it would be the attraction of the monies that may have been back in the offering. I understood demand had dropped off at one point, leaving the nests at a low, down to half price on the kilo, now the price was up once more, and not that far off the high price it once was in the year’s past. Two hotels on the street had built new top floors, turned those floors into bird houses. Some of the older hotels in town had been completely renovated for keeping birds, hopefully being a better income than that of paying guests. I tried to blot out the constant noise with music at times, but the end result is the surrounding noise of loud tweeting was just too much for me, and would eventually with no doubt, keep my customers away too.
This I decided was the place to stay for the night once more, but away from the bird house near the river and lower end of town. We found a good room at the far end of the small town, the thing you may not find some of the accommodation on the likes of Agoda or other such sites, so it’s a case of just looking, I was hoping to go a little more to a place I once stayed some time ago, that place had no sign nor any indication of being a guest house, it is like I say just asking and being lucky. The reason for stopping the night, were the once again unfortunate conditions of the road, pothole after pothole and some parts no surface at all only stone chips that are unfriendly when you have only two wheels. I have done the journey in the day in either direction in the past, but now I have also learned when to call it a day.
In the morning I checked over the bike, there are four bolts holding down the handlebar clamp, one was one inch adrift with the plastic cap still attached, I removed the caps and discarded them has I retightened down the bolts holding the bars in place. That’s what the rough roads can do has a result, it’s always worth the little time to look over the bike when on a journey. My partner had walked up to the road to find breakfast, hot coffee and Crapes! Pancakes in my language, she had done well, being that you won’t usually find western dishes in these places. I am not so opposed to Khmer food, but then again it is never on the top of my good food list. I too am not really a good breakfast person, unless it happened to be a British fry up, coffee is good. If must, I can cope well in the mornings with egg, and rice or rice soup with possibly chicken, but I don’t like chewing on bones, not early morning anyway.
It was not that far up the road where we stayed before has it happened, but I was unsure of the distance last night, but no problem it’s good to know where you can stop and sleep for the night if or when needed. Up to now I have stayed at three places from there down to Highway 4. I found after there for a while prices for accommodation was a little expensive to the tune of $50 per night for some. The places I were to stay priced at $7 fan $12 aircon, not forgetting I’m only using the room while I am traveling, but the occasions have called for the stop, be it the weather or more easy for my lady, traveling by bike is not for everyone, so at times it will make the difference if it’s a nice room with some comfort and Wi-Fi and LCD TV, the rooms have served the purpose, being adequate and of reasonable price.
It is a very pleasant morning and the roads are never busy on this route, but still you must look out for the other road users, minibuses, and more so the large bus, they tend to travel at some speed coming from behind you, it’s more rare that the oncoming traffic will be on your side of the road unless there is an obstacle making them deviate, such as potholes or cows. Yes, watch out for farm animals and pedestrians, also dogs in the evenings. Many people I know would not travel these roads in darkness, too be honest I have on lots of occasions and don’t really mind, the traffic at night is sparse to say the least. The reason stopping last night is the problem seeing the bad road surface.
On the left is Union Road going to the resort Dara Sakor, and the National Park. I have at times wanted to go take a look at the area down there, but its 59km from the turn off on road 48, and the thought is there, if I should be turned away it’s a round trip of 118km for nothing. There is Kiri Sakor and King island, but I don’t think the hotel is open now. Before I was on a friend’s boat, I got the impression he would not get too close.
Now the road starts to climb steeply with a few twists and turns. Up near the top of the hill is what you could call a remote viewing point, and if you blink you would miss it. Here I will nearly always stop for an hour or two, the view, to put it only mildly is incredible sight, probably the best in the area, not really worth riding past, even if you was to stay five minutes it would be worth the time, just to see the vast forest that continues as far has one can see, all the way to the horizon in one’s possible view. It is also worth calling at a roadside stall beforehand to buy some snacks, fruit and drinks, it can get hot in the exposed location, although there is a shelter to help take a little heat away.
A Guide to Cambodia's Cardamom Mountains
Spanning more than 4.4 million hectares of rainforest in southwestern Cambodia, the Cardamom Mountains remains Southeast Asia’s largest remaining rainforest. Inhabited by a swathe of endangered wildlife, the expansive woodland is also home to about 25,000 people, many of whom are ethnic minorities.
https://theculturetrip.com/asia/cambodi ... mountains/
Then the journey onward towards the 3rd bridge at Trapeang Rung, after the bridge there are plenty of roadside restaurants, but what is important now is to make sure the moto had fuel, from here to the next bridge there is not many more places, and it also depends on the time at this point onwards. Now there is enough potholes to be concerned about and I am happy we have the daylight. It was a year or more on this section I had my troubles.
The so called pothole, was then to resemble bomb creators which many you could ride the full bike in and down the hole to a depth of two feet or so, and back out, then into one more and then repeat on and on, it was hard going at times, with a lot of parts also under water, no way of seeing to the bottom of the holes, it was to come in sections, like it was some kind of training or course, testing the drivers/riders abilities and control. We now seemed to clear the worst and on tarmac of sorts, but then we would be faced again with the test once more, but, more so over and over again, it was somewhat of a challenge. Some had also failed the challenge with vehicles left, abandoned.
Where the road flattened out I stopped at the roadside store for water, it was thirsty work, then, later riding away I was now strangely feeling the deflation of the rear tyre, concerns for the rim of the wheel we could not press on, unless we can get a repair there is no going on to Koh Kong with this moto. I said to her “ride steady back to the shop” she was lighter than myself, also she is very capable of riding bikes with a clutch. I had pushed the bike already for quite some way, down the hill, the shop was now also back in view. The shop owner tried to wake up the local bike repair man, but to no avail. He informed us due to him and his friend had been buying cases of Angkor from him, he didn’t think he would have been in a fit state anyway to do the work. I had inspected the damage, due to the two gaping holes that were about the size of my hand, there was certainly need of fitting a new tyre, he more than likely would not stock one anyhow for this bike. So now I ask the shop keeper for beer and if he would like to join me in a can or two. My partner was busy and enjoying the time chatting too his wife, she said we can leave the bike here inside, but there is nowhere here or around for us to stay, now the darkness of the night was drawing in. Yes, with no more options, I was back to hitching once more. That is if anyone drives past, the road was so quite now.
Time seemed slow, and I was on my second can, headlights in the far distance, and coming closer, we got out in the road a little way trying to wave the truck down to stop, the driver was having none of it and drove on by. Shit a 3rd beer then, my lady bought me out a pot noodle, it was appreciated has it was getting a little cold out there now. We sat on the raised platform of the bamboo pagoda outside, were I placed the beer down and tucked into the warm pot of delight that could be my only meal of tonight before I sleep for the night where I am sat. In this kind of situation, you have to make the best of what you have, and all we had was, not very much. I have the mind that we don’t have any control of such now, and what will be will be. I am still tackling the hot noodles, but they are spicy too, turning to her I said if a truck comes go out in the road alone and show the driver a bit of leg like on the Benny Hill show, then when he stops, I’ll grab the bag. She had no idea what I was talking about, another truck went by, so was the time about 10pm now. My lady was feeling the cold chill of the night air, putting on more cloths from the rucksack, soon it was time for the waterproof coat it was raining lightly, if the rain was to turn heavy, we would have problems. Lights again heading our way, I walked onto the road there were two cars approaching I waved my arms, flagging them down hoping they would stop. The first one did, alongside us, with the other one pulling up over the road, we explained the situation, the driver said it was up to his customer, he was the driver of the taxi with a fare from Sihanoukville going to Koh Kong. The passenger was a very attractive Chinese lady, she said OK. There was a little commotion with the two drivers at this point, when in the car the driver explained he was sorry that he had to charge us $10 for the fare even that the young lady had hired the taxi. I understood it was because of the other driver’s greed, but it did not matter because of our situation I would have expected to pay, now the bomb holes were back once again.
But this time we were doing fine it was not nearly has bad this time, but I wonder how long it will take to do the repairs, would the surface be allowed to get like that once again, problem is once the surface is broken it lets the water in and under the road and then there is no stopping it from just coming apart, that was a year ago, now it was starting again, but then again it is toward the end of the wet season.
Now we had come to the downhill towards the 4th bridge of Tatai. There was no road surface here, it had been washed away by the rains and the heavy-laden trucks had helped it along its way also putting in large ruts too, difficult on the moto, picking the best way and trying not to slide on the gravel now too darkness was drawing in. Over the last bridge and not much road up the other side, I was riding slow the rest of the way into Koh Kong, we would happily dine at my Khmer friend’s restaurant at the end of the first leg of the journey. Tomorrow is the beginning of a new day.