Fusion Food: Asian Pizzas at Cambodian-Owned California Restaurant
20 December 2018
Yim’s love of combining and sharing flavors comes across through a lineup of globally inspired pizzas, topped with everything from Chinese roasted duck (with a plum-hoisin sauce) to egg and Filipino longanisa (his kids are half Filipino) to, yes, marinated bulgogi beef and kimchi (using a gojuchang marinara like their 4th Horseman mates).
If you want to get to know PowWow through just one pizza, though, go for the Angkor, which incorporates ingredients from the chef’s Cambodian heritage. Marinara gets ditched for a white garlic sauce and a lemongrass-ginger beef holds it down like a fennel sausage would at Michael’s Pizzeria. Lest beef and cheese and dough bog you down with savory heft, pickled carrots, a hint of galangal and a vinaigrette-tossed watercress are there with a piquant rope to pull you back up.
The pizza is probably only one of only a few in existence that’s aromatic to the same herbal depth of a pho or curry. (For another Khmer salute, order it to go and it will come in a pink pizza box, like every dozen set of glazed you’ve bought at a Cambodian-owned doughnut shop.)
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