We couldn’t be bothered to look for a new place for brekkie and instead headed back to Artisans Kampot where we had breakfast brunch the day we arrived.

Artisans Kampot
Riverside Road 15
Open 7 days a week from 08:00 to 21:00



Just like last time, we were greeted by the very friendly staff and, just like last time, we were the only guests. Thao and I ordered the smashed Avocado Tartine ($4.75) and the kids good Beef “Kuiteav” ($4.75) and Bai Sach Chrouck ($4.75) as I wanted them to try Khmer food.



The Tartines, fancy word for an open-faced sandwich, were very good. I think smashed avocado is another one of these hipster fucktarderies but it went will with the bacon and poached eggs. The pork rice was also nice though I think that it is a dish that should be eaten perched on a small plastic stool whilst inhaling exhaust fumes for that special je ne sais pas flavor. The fussiest eater, Thao’s daughter, also proclaimed the “Kuiteav” very good and we were all happy campers.



We also had smoothies again and whilst not exactly cheap at 4 Dollars a pop, they are worth it. The first time we ate here, the smoothies were served in glasses with vacuum walls which kept the smoothies cold and the hands warm. Not quite sure why, but today we got the smoothies in plastic containers, the kind used for take-away. The only slight hiccup during what was otherwise a great breakfast.



Whilst eating, I watched a stall in front selling bread. Apparently run by a Belgian lady, I was since told that she makes excellent bread and pastries. Judging by the constant stream of customers, I can only assume that that is indeed true.

Breakfast dusted, we set off for Kep again as a visit to Rabbit Island was on the program. The road hadn’t improved since the day before but the weather was gorgeous and we did not mind at all.


Breakfast took its toll.



Rabbit Island (Koh Tonsay)



Boats for Rabbit Island leave from a pretty big pier a few kilometers east of the Crab market. There is a regular boat at 11:00 but we hired a boat for ourselves. If memory serves, we paid $10.00 for the boat. It is necessary to register at the ticket counter, but we were the only passengers, and it was pretty painless. The actual boat trip took about 30 minutes across a very placid sea. From afar we could see that there was plenty of construction going on; with what appears a big resort going up on one side of the island.




Big resort coming up.

I hadn’t been to Rabbit Island and the arrival was a bit of a shock. We stopped at a tiny beach that was completely trashed and filthy. I just do not understand why the locals do not keep the place clean, it must be in their own interest if they want to attract visitors. As I thought this is where we supposed to spend the day, I was all ready to turn around and head back. Luckily, the captain pointed us to a path and asked us to follow it to the other side.



We walked for about 10 minutes, mostly through garbage and I was fearing what we would see when we got there. I hadn’t need worry as we did actually end up on a beautiful beach. There were dozens of little bungalows lining the beach, but most restaurants seemed to be closed and we were the only people when we arrived.



We picked the first restaurant that was open. I do not recall seeing a name, but I suspect that all the restaurants serve the same food at the same price, and it would not have made a difference where we ate. It was a little early for lunch and we went for a swim first. The water was crystal clear and just the right temperature, but there were a few jellyfish about. Whilst the rest of the gang continued swimming, I parked my butt in a hammock and started on the beers, which were a very reasonable $1.00 a can and ice-cold.







The menu was very much focused on seafood, primarily prawns, squid, and fish. All items were $5.00 for a small portion and $10.00 for a large helping. We ordered grilled prawns, grilled squid, and fried squid. I had seen the kitchen earlier and basic as it was, the food was very good. Seafood doesn’t need much, it just needs to be fresh and not overcooked, the lady cooking delivered on both.





All in all, we spent about 4 hours, or 7 beers, just loafing about and enjoying the good life. That is really all that is there to do on Rabbit Island anyway. We did have to head back eventually. Thao’s daughter broke her flip-flop walking back. I obviously had to make fun of her, and I promptly broke mine, too. Karma and all that.





The ride back was pretty rough as wind and waves had picked up during our stay. We got pretty wet and my, supposedly waterproof, phone promptly gave up the ghost; it was quickly becoming an expensive daytrip.




Two of us were shoeless.

Back to Kampot and a barefooted walk looking for shoes for the two of us. I did not have much hope finding size 46 shoes, but a friend pointed me in the right direction, and we were soon shoed again. From there, it was off for a shower before heading out to another restaurant that had been recommended. We walked into town to take the compulsory photo in front of the Durian before heading for beer (me) and a hair wash (everyone else).



Twenty Three
23 street 726, Kampot, Cambodia



A nice little Bistrot with an even nicer selection of craft beers which I started to sample whilst waiting for everyone else. Prices for the beers were from $4.50 to $5.00 as far as I remember (yes, I did sample a few).



Hair wash done; it was time to order; we hadn’t eaten for at least five hours after all. The menu is on the small side, but everything sounded pretty good. We ended up ordering sauteed Gnocchi ($8.50), Dion chicken leg ($12.50), Fillet of seabass with clam sauce and Chorizo (&13.50), and Crispy pork belly ($12.50). I am not exaggerating when I say that everything was cooked to absolute perfection. Ingredients were obviously fresh and there is an artist in the kitchen. Service was great as well and the restaurant would be my regular go-to place if it was in Phnom Penh. Not the cheapest restaurant but worth every Dollar. Food wise, today was a perfect 10 out of 10 and it made more than up for the rocky start we had.









Thoroughly stuffed, we headed back to our hotel for the final night.

I really like twenty three. Always go there when in kampot.

I think it's one of the best french bistro type places in Cambodia and definitely the cheapest.

Great value for money. You'll do well to find better western food at that quality in Cambodia

Now that looks like probabyl the best food pictures I have seen in a long time. I hope the owner employs a lot of khmer kitchen staff..there is something to learn in this restaurant.

I dont understand the crazy fruitshake/juice prices.

Flexxman wrote: ↑Thu Jul 20, 2023 3:05 pm Nice ongoing report. As far as I remember, when I visited Koh Tonsay about a year ago the (private) boat cost $10 each passenger (or $20 total at the time). It is cheaper to get the regular boat but it leaves scheduled on time. On return you might not want to stay that long as there is not much to do so you'll get bored after a few hours. Your own boat leaves when you want (although we had to locate the boatsman and wait for him). Did they still check passports of all passengers before selling tickets? I did not have it on me but remembered in time I had a copy on my phone as they did not let me book a boat without.

Quite sure it was $10 or $15 for the boat. I first thought it was per person and was thinking to myself that that is expensive and then was surprised how cheap it was.

We had to write down the passport numbers but they did not check if we actually wrote the correct numbers.

hanno wrote: ↑Thu Jul 20, 2023 3:21 pm

Flexxman wrote: ↑Thu Jul 20, 2023 3:05 pm Nice ongoing report. As far as I remember, when I visited Koh Tonsay about a year ago the (private) boat cost $10 each passenger (or $20 total at the time). It is cheaper to get the regular boat but it leaves scheduled on time. On return you might not want to stay that long as there is not much to do so you'll get bored after a few hours. Your own boat leaves when you want (although we had to locate the boatsman and wait for him). Did they still check passports of all passengers before selling tickets? I did not have it on me but remembered in time I had a copy on my phone as they did not let me book a boat without.

Quite sure it was $10 or $15 for the boat. I first thought it was per person and was thinking to myself that that is expensive and then was surprised how cheap it was.

We had to write down the passport numbers but they did not check if we actually wrote the correct numbers.

than the price has dropped> last time we went ( 2018) whole boat was $25 and he waited for us>
that was a Khmer doing the deal
no passports/no id's