Road trip Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham and back

Do you have a Cambodian trip report you want to share? Post it here, and feel free to link to your blog if it's a travel blog for Cambodia, South East Asia, or anywhere really. You can ask and answer questions about travel advice in Cambodia or just share your pictures and videos with us. Most people who live in or visit Cambodia have also checked out nearby countries like Vietnam, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Malaysia, Indonesia and the Philippines, and you can get to most of these countries by traveling overland, so put any travel plans, reviews or questions here. Discussions about dirt bike trails in here as well.
User avatar
AndyKK
Expatriate
Posts: 6448
Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2017 7:32 am
Reputation: 2248
Great Britain

Road trip Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham and back

Post by AndyKK »

Road trip Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham and back

I didn’t fancy travelling through the city for many reasons, and living on the opposite bank of the river at Chbar Ampov highway 1 and 11 seemed to be the obvious choice of route, more so at 4pm, with the traffic now getting heavy in the area.
A quick shake of the bike from side to side, I had enough fuel to not worry about filling up just now. I was traveling alone, and light by the means of one small backpack.

A few unnamed narrow streets and a last right turn I was on the main highway, soon to be negotiating the traffic jam ahead, soon it was obvious there was no oncoming traffic, so better to ride carefully down the left side of the long que of standing traffic. On approach to the accident, police cars blocked the road while the crane was getting ready to pick up the HGV vehicle that was lying across the road on its side, I eventually passed the incident via the lefthand side after the line of Tuck-tucks that were getting stuck in the soft dirt of the verge. The road was clear now on my direction, but soon to hear more sirens in the foreground, this time a head on collision of two motorcycle’s. It’s all a wake-up call to let you know how dangerous it is for its road users who literally risk their lives daily.
Within sometime the traffic was flowing at its normal hectic rate, drivers and riders selfishly only caring for one’s self, with no regard for the other road users, after sometime it seems to get too much, I don’t know why these people are rushing to get somewhere so quickly. Time for a coffee stop! It’s there two dogs’ approach and piss regardless on my bikes front wheel, does nothing have any respect for the visitor.
Soon I was to pass over the bright yellow span of Tsubasa Bridge leaving Kandal Province, and entering the Province of Prey Veng. From the bridge down a short distance to the busy commercial town Neak Loeung, to double back under the bridge on highway 11 heading to the province capital town of Prey Veng, stopping for fuel just before, $10 and the bike tank is full. I changed the oil the day before, like always on any of my previous road trips, regardless of what quality the oil changed from the sump.
Prey Vang town was in darkness and very quiet when I arrived, although I had no intention of stopping. I passed Pur Rieng and then on to Svay Antor where lives a Khmer friend at the market area located via a side street too the left of the main highway, I stopped for coffee after the Tela Gas Station, tried calling my friend to see if he wanted to join me for a coffee or two, but alas no reply, I wondered if he was attending one of the many wedding parties I had passed by. The coffee was good strong Cambodian’s finest I must add, and at a very reasonable price of $0.50 per cup with tea too, but relentlessly the coffee server would ask me to stay the night (too rest hahaha) I doubt that was her overall intention.
Two delightful cups of coffee I was back on the road and thankful of the blue and red flashing warning lights that pointed out the hazard areas, although even the traffic was very low you still had plenty of chance being forced off the road by oncoming overtaking vehicles. Cows and dogs are a large problem too, more so at hours of darkness, with cows sometimes laid in the road, and dogs being very snappy, another reason to be aware of your surroundings when stopping for a piss or cigarette.
I had passed Prey Svay at some speed with very little if anything on the road ahead, the bike running at it’s best for the cool flow of the evening air, with caution I was to pass through Ou Reang Ov Market, that would be a usual stop on any other occasion, but tonight I just wanted mainly to get to my destination of a small guest house this side the city of Kampong Cham. From the rise after the market town its downhill with three lanes through agricultural areas, towards the roadside areas of houses of Peam Cheang down to the bottom of highway 11. After a slight detour too pick up my partner Nak, who incidentally was looking well, then it was a short ride for both of us, on to the guest house for a good night’s sleep.
The following morning, I was awoken to a smile and a good strong hot Cambodian coffee, best start to the day. Soon we we’re on the bike crossing the Kizuna Bridge spanning the Mekong River into the city of Kampong Cham that lines the riverbank and well beyond.
How the place has changed since we last visited at the beginning of the Covid19 pandemic, the foreign tourist declines over the few years has certainly made an impact, with many businesses that once catered for their needs relocating or closed down. Although the city has a few restaurants that do cater for its handful of hardly resident’s and western visitors.
The Mekong Crossing Guest House Restaurant and Pub is now a mini mart. Moon River Guest House & Restaurant was closed the days we had visited, I knew of the French restaurant Moustache & Nico restaurant, moving down to Kampot, they did some very special home smoked meats I recall, and their samosas were the best for a late-night snack.
Also, it seemed my favourite pizza place, Madinina Pizza has long gone. Smile Restaurant was open and serving western and Khmer dishes. But it is the stronger Lazy Mekong Daze who has diversified to the Western only menu who seem to be catching most of the daily trade.
But on the other hand, the city still is alive with its weekend visitors from the capital city. If you like sleepy cities visit in the week days, the place will not disappoint has its relaxed, and still with many visitors’ attractions to see, such has
Nokor Bachey Temple, built in the middle of the 11th century, during the reign of Suryavarman II and King Ouphey dedicating to Brahmanism. Hanchey Temple is also worth a look, based overlooking the river Mekong.
There is also the Kampong Cham’s iconic bamboo bridge, spanning from the mainland to the island of Koh Pen, now at its reduced single width for cyclists and foot passenger’s, no motor vehicles allowed these days.
Three nights stay was long enough for me on this particular visit, to be honest I was looking forward to the ride back to Phnom Penh, that was after I was to wish Nak a good journey back to the capital and wave good bye has the mini-bus left the guest house. Then once the bus was on its way, I departed to get some breakfast in Kampong Cham.
The route I chose was one I had done many times beforehand; so, after eating it was then onwards with the journey ahead, over the road bridge to Koh Pen. I always find riding on the island is pleasing because of its beautiful surroundings and the tranquillity it often offers the visitor. But this morning I was there to catch the ferryboat the turn before the Mosque Masjid Phum Dabbei Loeu, on the other side of the island where my crossing would bring me to Chi He Market on the mainland once again.

Image

Image

Image

From the departure of the ferryboat, it’s a short ride to the river bridge, then a right turn immediately at the end of the bridge to follow the winding river on the right-hand side. Has I remembered a good smooth road a little resembling part of the Bokor Hill road, but alas after a short distance there was no road surface only ruts sones and dirt. The unnamed road leads to the road 314 that for basically its entire length it too had suffered the loss of tarmac.
Joining highway 8 from the junction at Prey Sla was literally like it had been bombed! With potholes all the way I was traveling, with traffic flowing on the opposite side to avoid the potholes, with no due care at forcing Motos off the road onto lose gravel.
There were still the good parts of the route, being that of the many Lotus fields.

Image

Image

Turning left at Kompong Popil Market following the bridge over the river and following the river to ones left was some kind of better road to follow, but good things here do not necessary go hand in hand, after what seemed a good distance, for miles onwards I was on dusty loose gravel roads all the way to the next and last ferry crossing.

Image

Image

The ferry is opposite Prasat Vimean Koh Pos.

Image

Image

Then it’s a right turn onto highway 1 towards Phnom Penh, and soon home sweet home for a well needed shower.
Always "hope" but never "expect".
User avatar
AndyKK
Expatriate
Posts: 6448
Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2017 7:32 am
Reputation: 2248
Great Britain

Re: Road trip Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham and back

Post by AndyKK »

Second time round -
This time I am to journey on the Honda MSX, to Kampong Cham. The small bike needs a good run out, instead of running around the city.
I changed the oil the day before and checked the bike over, I had actually been working on a small sidecar, but alas I didn't finish it on time for this journey.
Image

To be perfectly honest there is very little to do to have the sidecar finished. It wants mounting on the bike, and the wheel putting in place. But, soon has my passport was hand delivered with another years EOS it was time to leave.
I packed light, and decided to go via highway 6 hoping that the road would be better. Once out of Phnom Penh I was averaging about 60klm on the open road, at that rate of speed it would not take so long. When reaching Scun, I was looking for spider's, but no luck, is it not spider season? I was looking forward too tasting the little spicy fellows, but looks like not on this journey.
On the other side of Scun, there was a little noise from the chain, I stopped to get it adjusted, the guy did so, and oiled the chain too, and free of charge.
It gave me time to have a coffee and take a photo.
Image

The lotus has got to be one of my favorite flowers, the colours are so vibrant.
The sky turned dark with rain clouds in the near distance, time to move on swiftly.
I picked up some food just on the other side of Kampong Cham, two barbequed fish and four chicken legs. I don't want to turn up empty handed at Nak's half sisters.
I always have a warm welcome from them. Nak was upstairs in the house, and she didn't look too good. Time to get her to hospital. Her sister took her in the tuk-tuk, I followed on the bike. But waited at the restaurant on riverside waiting for the news.
Image

I followed the Bacardi with soup.
Image
Always "hope" but never "expect".
User avatar
AndyKK
Expatriate
Posts: 6448
Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2017 7:32 am
Reputation: 2248
Great Britain

Re: Road trip Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham and back

Post by AndyKK »

It's been a funny day in a strange way today, not much to say really, apart then it has been typically one of those strange Khmer days.
I blame myself, be
Always "hope" but never "expect".
User avatar
Ghostwriter
Expatriate
Posts: 3147
Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2019 2:01 am
Reputation: 2025
France

Re: Road trip Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham and back

Post by Ghostwriter »

"Bacardi & soup" seems to be quite something of it's own, like a Cuban grandma recipe for flu, a caribbean Irish coffee ?
Could be nice, who knows
User avatar
AndyKK
Expatriate
Posts: 6448
Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2017 7:32 am
Reputation: 2248
Great Britain

Re: Road trip Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham and back

Post by AndyKK »

Ghostwriter wrote: Sat Apr 02, 2022 11:33 pm "Bacardi & soup" seems to be quite something of it's own, like a Cuban grandma recipe for flu, a caribbean Irish coffee ?
Could be nice, who knows
Strange combination, but sometimes something you fancy helps to make you feel better.
Always "hope" but never "expect".
User avatar
AndyKK
Expatriate
Posts: 6448
Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2017 7:32 am
Reputation: 2248
Great Britain

Re: Road trip Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham and back

Post by AndyKK »

The unfinished post above, due to the rain I expect, and the distance thunder storms had something to do with losing the wifi over and over again.

Sat Apr 02, 2022 7:27 pm

It's been a funny day in a strange way today, not much to say really, apart then it has been typically one of those strange Khmer days.
I blame myself, because I really knew what to expect.
The main reason to me being in Kampong Cham is obviously to see my partner Nak, and more so that of her wellbeing.
Also there's a small matter of the room I am having built for her. Can't knock the builder has he his doing what I expected with the time he has, and the work is okay. It's just that he has other daily work too.
So yesterday afternoon I went looking for floor tiles, I thought I could order and pay for them. Being cool at evening time I could then lay the floor myself. Good idea's do not come together has planned! I went to two places for the tiles and got no where, the first place was asking a extortion price, the second just said she "stop" in other words she refused to sell to me.

So I ended up having a pot of tea at the riverside and something to nibble.

Image

Image
Always "hope" but never "expect".
User avatar
cabron
Expatriate
Posts: 621
Joined: Wed Sep 15, 2021 12:50 pm
Reputation: 173
Cambodia

Re: Road trip Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham and back

Post by cabron »

AndyKK wrote: Sat Mar 12, 2022 8:28 pm Road trip Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham and back

I didn’t fancy travelling through the city for many reasons, and living on the opposite bank of the river at Chbar Ampov highway 1 and 11 seemed to be the obvious choice of route, more so at 4pm, with the traffic now getting heavy in the area.
A quick shake of the bike from side to side, I had enough fuel to not worry about filling up just now. I was traveling alone, and light by the means of one small backpack.

A few unnamed narrow streets and a last right turn I was on the main highway, soon to be negotiating the traffic jam ahead, soon it was obvious there was no oncoming traffic, so better to ride carefully down the left side of the long que of standing traffic. On approach to the accident, police cars blocked the road while the crane was getting ready to pick up the HGV vehicle that was lying across the road on its side, I eventually passed the incident via the lefthand side after the line of Tuck-tucks that were getting stuck in the soft dirt of the verge. The road was clear now on my direction, but soon to hear more sirens in the foreground, this time a head on collision of two motorcycle’s. It’s all a wake-up call to let you know how dangerous it is for its road users who literally risk their lives daily.
Within sometime the traffic was flowing at its normal hectic rate, drivers and riders selfishly only caring for one’s self, with no regard for the other road users, after sometime it seems to get too much, I don’t know why these people are rushing to get somewhere so quickly. Time for a coffee stop! It’s there two dogs’ approach and piss regardless on my bikes front wheel, does nothing have any respect for the visitor.
Soon I was to pass over the bright yellow span of Tsubasa Bridge leaving Kandal Province, and entering the Province of Prey Veng. From the bridge down a short distance to the busy commercial town Neak Loeung, to double back under the bridge on highway 11 heading to the province capital town of Prey Veng, stopping for fuel just before, $10 and the bike tank is full. I changed the oil the day before, like always on any of my previous road trips, regardless of what quality the oil changed from the sump.
Prey Vang town was in darkness and very quiet when I arrived, although I had no intention of stopping. I passed Pur Rieng and then on to Svay Antor where lives a Khmer friend at the market area located via a side street too the left of the main highway, I stopped for coffee after the Tela Gas Station, tried calling my friend to see if he wanted to join me for a coffee or two, but alas no reply, I wondered if he was attending one of the many wedding parties I had passed by. The coffee was good strong Cambodian’s finest I must add, and at a very reasonable price of $0.50 per cup with tea too, but relentlessly the coffee server would ask me to stay the night (too rest hahaha) I doubt that was her overall intention.
Two delightful cups of coffee I was back on the road and thankful of the blue and red flashing warning lights that pointed out the hazard areas, although even the traffic was very low you still had plenty of chance being forced off the road by oncoming overtaking vehicles. Cows and dogs are a large problem too, more so at hours of darkness, with cows sometimes laid in the road, and dogs being very snappy, another reason to be aware of your surroundings when stopping for a piss or cigarette.
I had passed Prey Svay at some speed with very little if anything on the road ahead, the bike running at it’s best for the cool flow of the evening air, with caution I was to pass through Ou Reang Ov Market, that would be a usual stop on any other occasion, but tonight I just wanted mainly to get to my destination of a small guest house this side the city of Kampong Cham. From the rise after the market town its downhill with three lanes through agricultural areas, towards the roadside areas of houses of Peam Cheang down to the bottom of highway 11. After a slight detour too pick up my partner Nak, who incidentally was looking well, then it was a short ride for both of us, on to the guest house for a good night’s sleep.
The following morning, I was awoken to a smile and a good strong hot Cambodian coffee, best start to the day. Soon we we’re on the bike crossing the Kizuna Bridge spanning the Mekong River into the city of Kampong Cham that lines the riverbank and well beyond.
How the place has changed since we last visited at the beginning of the Covid19 pandemic, the foreign tourist declines over the few years has certainly made an impact, with many businesses that once catered for their needs relocating or closed down. Although the city has a few restaurants that do cater for its handful of hardly resident’s and western visitors.
The Mekong Crossing Guest House Restaurant and Pub is now a mini mart. Moon River Guest House & Restaurant was closed the days we had visited, I knew of the French restaurant Moustache & Nico restaurant, moving down to Kampot, they did some very special home smoked meats I recall, and their samosas were the best for a late-night snack.
Also, it seemed my favourite pizza place, Madinina Pizza has long gone. Smile Restaurant was open and serving western and Khmer dishes. But it is the stronger Lazy Mekong Daze who has diversified to the Western only menu who seem to be catching most of the daily trade.
But on the other hand, the city still is alive with its weekend visitors from the capital city. If you like sleepy cities visit in the week days, the place will not disappoint has its relaxed, and still with many visitors’ attractions to see, such has
Nokor Bachey Temple, built in the middle of the 11th century, during the reign of Suryavarman II and King Ouphey dedicating to Brahmanism. Hanchey Temple is also worth a look, based overlooking the river Mekong.
There is also the Kampong Cham’s iconic bamboo bridge, spanning from the mainland to the island of Koh Pen, now at its reduced single width for cyclists and foot passenger’s, no motor vehicles allowed these days.
Three nights stay was long enough for me on this particular visit, to be honest I was looking forward to the ride back to Phnom Penh, that was after I was to wish Nak a good journey back to the capital and wave good bye has the mini-bus left the guest house. Then once the bus was on its way, I departed to get some breakfast in Kampong Cham.
The route I chose was one I had done many times beforehand; so, after eating it was then onwards with the journey ahead, over the road bridge to Koh Pen. I always find riding on the island is pleasing because of its beautiful surroundings and the tranquillity it often offers the visitor. But this morning I was there to catch the ferryboat the turn before the Mosque Masjid Phum Dabbei Loeu, on the other side of the island where my crossing would bring me to Chi He Market on the mainland once again.

Image

Image

Image

From the departure of the ferryboat, it’s a short ride to the river bridge, then a right turn immediately at the end of the bridge to follow the winding river on the right-hand side. Has I remembered a good smooth road a little resembling part of the Bokor Hill road, but alas after a short distance there was no road surface only ruts sones and dirt. The unnamed road leads to the road 314 that for basically its entire length it too had suffered the loss of tarmac.
Joining highway 8 from the junction at Prey Sla was literally like it had been bombed! With potholes all the way I was traveling, with traffic flowing on the opposite side to avoid the potholes, with no due care at forcing Motos off the road onto lose gravel.
There were still the good parts of the route, being that of the many Lotus fields.

Image

Image

Turning left at Kompong Popil Market following the bridge over the river and following the river to ones left was some kind of better road to follow, but good things here do not necessary go hand in hand, after what seemed a good distance, for miles onwards I was on dusty loose gravel roads all the way to the next and last ferry crossing.

Image

Image

The ferry is opposite Prasat Vimean Koh Pos.

Image

Image

Then it’s a right turn onto highway 1 towards Phnom Penh, and soon home sweet home for a well needed shower.
I envy your courage.
Boredom is like a shroud
User avatar
AndyKK
Expatriate
Posts: 6448
Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2017 7:32 am
Reputation: 2248
Great Britain

Re: Road trip Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham and back

Post by AndyKK »

cabron wrote: Sun Apr 03, 2022 1:44 pm
AndyKK wrote: Sat Mar 12, 2022 8:28 pm Road trip Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham and back
I envy your courage.
For many visitors to come and ride on the Cambodian highways, you need at least courage. Mostly you need to keep your wit's about you, thinking well ahead, because no one will do it for you. I find it okay on the roads, or I would not do it. It can be very tiring and taxing many times. But it is well enjoyable on the other hand, also I would rather look after my own wellbeing than some bus driver.
Always "hope" but never "expect".
User avatar
AndyKK
Expatriate
Posts: 6448
Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2017 7:32 am
Reputation: 2248
Great Britain

Re: Road trip Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham and back

Post by AndyKK »

It's my second visit today at the riverside Smile restaurant. I called this afternoon for a pot of tea, I brought Nak for a ride into town, so we could buy some bedding. I have learned over the past years, "best price bong, it's from Thailand $35". I went over the road the best price for the same item was $10. Lesson is don't always buy what is offered at time's because they will try it on a bit.

A little information on Smile restaurant -
Image

Roast Pork tonight, it's a shame for me that they just kinda steam the veggies here, they are has hard has my concrete floor of the new room, now adorable with mat's on the floor.
Image

I think followed by a few Bacardi's, the approach too and over the bridge is crazy, with cars everyday being 3 abreast, and it is so teasing, more so for the oncoming traffic. The usual tuk-tuk will block your way by thinking that they are still on a moto, but it's too late when they realize that they will not fit, that is unfortunate for everyone on the road.
Always "hope" but never "expect".
User avatar
AndyKK
Expatriate
Posts: 6448
Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2017 7:32 am
Reputation: 2248
Great Britain

Re: Road trip Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham and back

Post by AndyKK »

Arriving back at the sisters home last night it seems the naigbours were in full swing party mode, and I didn't turn down their invitation to join them, with free flowing of assorted beer cans, little snacks of dry fish, mango with sweet and spicy dips, good music and conversation.
The beers would flow freely until the early hours, and my ring pulls seemed to be all winners.
The best Buddhist tattoo of the evening had to go to this guy, and I appreciate the very fine work.
Image

When waking in the morning the home cooked soup was on the boil, soon to be taken to the local Wat temple for the monk's to enjoy.
Image

I decided I would have a mornings walk around the area, it wasn't long has I was walking up the dirt road, my hang was firmly clasped by the sisters youngest son who wanted to accompany me on my adventure.
A few photos of the morning -
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Tonight I sit at Smile restaurant, reflection of the day, wifi and good food, and a few Bacardi's.

Image
Always "hope" but never "expect".
Post Reply Previous topicNext topic
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: crob, ExPenhMan, Freightdog, khmerhamster, simon43 and 376 guests