4 Months in Cambodia - Thoughts so far...

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MaxNormal
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4 Months in Cambodia - Thoughts so far...

Post by MaxNormal »

Well, it seems like barely yesterday that I was coming onto these forums after lurking for some time, to create an account seeking advice on coming to Cambodia. People were completely honest about the difficulties facing the country, and its various communities, especially at this time. Mrs Normal and I took all your advice, as well as copious researching, and reformed our plan around that new information. A month later and things had changed somewhat and we felt ready to put our plan B.5 into action.

And so we did, and I covered our experiences with arrival and Quarantine in an update post to you all, hopefully also providing arrivals at that time with up-to-date information (or at least our account which hopefully was useful in whatever way it could be.)

Part 1. To Siem Reap.

We made our way out of Quarantine after 14 days on the dot and hired a driver to take us up to Siem Reap, where we would be making our home for the next year or so at least. Jobs secured, visa plans in place, and an amazing drive up through the country with a diligent, friendly and safe driver, we found ourselves already in Wonder at this Kingdom of such. Both Mrs Normal and I are fairly well travelled thus far in our lives, but the excitement of breaking out into the countryside of any new country is always exhilarating, and our journey up to SR was no exception.

Transfixed by the beautiful colours of the landscape, the vivid greens, lone tall standing trees dotting the open vistas, Khmer cattle lowing in the fields or by posts at the road. Traditional houses, seen by one’s eyes for the first time in real life, of all manner of arrangements, wooden finishes, colours, sizes and qualities. Young men fishing in the rivers with nets and homemade rods, and ladies selling all manner of snacks and drinks and vegetables and so on at the side of the road. Our driver stopped half way at a largish wooden structure hanging out over the water at the back side, decorated with hanging bags of coloured water and shiny streamers on the strings. The menu was MUCH reduced due to covid, but all we wanted was a nice coffee or tea and a sit down in the balmy afternoon air. We observed our first Cambodian street dogs/guard dogs as we headed out, lounging by the road side, dusty and tired in the heat, lapping from a small bowl of water put down by the establishment’s owners. Had a quick puff on an Esse Change menthol cigarette (very pleased to find a Korean brand I was familiar with at a quarter of the Korean cost) I was able to acquire just before we headed off. Back into the car and off once more.

The landscape continued to change almost imperceptibly, but definitely, as the nature of the arable land use changed, or as we drew closer and further from the water ways along the road side, or just out of site behind the rows of mixed traditional and more modern Khmer housing and commerce. It was incredible, we truly were glued to the windows as we drove through this changing landscape, townships and villages giving almost imperceptibly away to the boundaries of the next hamlet or short row of shops. With each having its own flavour or atmosphere, it was like moving through a large rainbow or discretely changing film real, slowly frame by frame, slowly enough, that you've made it from red to yellow without really noticing the colours change on the way.

About two thirds of the way through the journey, I searched YouTube for traditional Khmer music to listen to on my headphones as the sun was headed towards the horizon. Hoping to cement this birthing of myself into the country through the canal of audio/visual overload, I tuned in. Emotions running high from the last year anyway, combined with the huge rush of new cultural information was what gave foundation to an emotional discovery of Chapei Dong Veng, particularly this playlist at that time:



Granted the image they use for the video isn't from Cambodia, but the music kind of swept me off my feet. Emotional is putting it mildly. With musical hints and flavours of Jazz, Blues, Celtic, Bluegrass and Spoken Word sparking through the traditional 'Asiatic[esque]' music, mixed together with perfect playing and singing of this art form, new to me, blew me away. As the male and female voices truly sung from the soul, this new country felt vividly real and overwhelming, truly for the first time.

On passing through the border into SR province, we were pulled to the side as was all traffic, into a large red earth carpark. Our driver was hugely helpful and guided us through a couple of lines and windows/booths, with us giving some information when asked and receiving some sheets of paper in return. I can't overstate how friendly and helpful the driver was, he made the experience a breeze. The rest of the journey was an increasing feeling of excitement and anticipation, particularly as we began to drive the road into SR and the HUGE trees either side became more and more regular until they seemed to stand like a guard of honour, for all those entering the city, witnessing not only our arrival, but the arrival and departure of countless other individuals throughout the turbulent past of the Kingdom.

Night had fallen by the time we arrived at our accommodation, but we were quickly greeted by our landlord, who enthusiastically greeted us with such a welcoming smile and helped us kindly with our bags up the several sets of stairs, up to what would become our home here in SR (at least for the foreseeable months). We quickly met our western neighbour who lived across the landing from us, and she enthusiastically opined on the kindness of our landlord and his family. As I would come to know she was not wrong. Our first night in the city we were able to go out to a small Khmer owned café, the owner's life story outlined and printed on back of the menu made for sombre and reflective reading, with much written behind simple phrases given one knows the KOW's history. I highly recommend Tevy's in SR, she is lovely and is, as are so, so many, working hard to stay open in these difficult times.

Our first night was spent in a state of bewilderment and culture shock, both of the good variety. Standing on the roof at dusk, looking out over the canopy of abundant green foliage and terracotta rooves, rapidly giving way to shadows amidst the distant bark of dogs, headed out to join their buddies in the streets, all over the top of the consistent insect buzz. Trying to wrap my head around how amazing and real and different this all was. Lying in bed, hardly believing we had actually made it, and it was happening. We were here, and we were staying for the foreseeable.

Part 2. In Siem Reap.

Many people had a great deal to say about Cambodia in our seeking of advice, either generally about the Kingdom, or more specifically about SR as we sought more detailed information as we refined our plans. Much of what they had to say has borne out in the truth of our experience, but personally our reaction to some of these matters is different than those of the tellers of these tales (in that we aren’t really bothered by the things some people really had problems with, and haven’t been so far). The roads in SR are absolutely crazy. The dust is intense on some days, and of course when it rains, that dust turns to mud. The order they have decided to undertake the work is a little mind boggling, but progress is being made, and those roads that have been finished don't look too half bad I must say. The finish on the job is pretty good, albeit an ‘interesting’ workflow to get there. This constant upending of roads, trenches, closures, dust, mud and all the implications it brings have annoyed many and given people a lot to gripe about, but personally I don't really mind it at all. It absolutely added to the adventure and unpredictability aspects of the ventures, walks and rides. The only negative response I had to it all was the obvious impact it was having on local businesses amidst the already hugely challenging covid situation. Some of these folks have had the front third forcibly removed from their shops, or they currently open onto what is essentially an open sewer in some parts or a lunar surface in others. I know there are issues and have been from the past about private individuals using 'public' land, sides of the road/pavement etc., but I have sympathy for those for whom it worked, without issue, problem or debate, for years, without any detriment to the public purse, who have had the rug double pulled from under them.

I quickly ascertained where the lauded 'Big Angkor' was, and spent my first day walking from way down in the South of the city, up to route 6 and along it to Big Angkor. This was my first true dose of ‘out and about’ heat and humidity. Physically challenging, but spiritually (esoterically? experientially?) awesome. I felt the mud between my toes as I slipped on a muddy pile on the side of road, trying to avoid a car coming up behind me, it all squelched under my foot and into my sandal. The dust was in my eyes, I was sweating like a (insert rude sweat related joke here), and the smell was oscillating between sweet, sour, rot, meat, dust, fumes, water both running and standing, greenery, incense, cooking meats, cigarettes, and all the city smells in to boot as well. I stepped (or rather danced a little slipping jig) back, just saving my balance from going right into the mud. I wiped the sweat off my brow, and as I pulled on the straps of my back pack, caught the eye of a young security guard outside a small Oppo shop who smiled and nodded. He had clearly seen my slip, and we shared that knowing laugh with our eyes. I was happy to give him a little schadenfreude. Once again, I got a rush of the reality of our adventure. This walk through the city was amazing. So many sights, so many new noises, markets, styles, merchandise, vibrancy, people, culture. I was blissing.

I have been told by many how incredibly different it was before Covid here in SR. I have seen the photos. I have heard the stories. I think it is terribly unfortunate what Covid has done to a city that relies so heavily on tourism, and effectively built its economic model on that success. The struggle is real as I'm sure many of you have seen first-hand. Selfishly though, and I must say that I am aware of the selfish nature of this comment, but in some way, I am somewhat content that we have been able to see the city populated majoritively by its own people. Being able to take in so much Khmer based 'content' (bad phrase I know but you know what I mean; all that is life here minus the swell of partying Barangs) has been really great, and the immersion in culture and language has been really crystalising and encapsulating for us as a result. I have made friends with two Khmer gentlemen in particular so far. They are great guys, and we have hung out, talked about life and so many topics over a couple meals and drinks. They are really interesting people with lots of questions for me, as do I for them, and we each get lots out of our interactions.

I quickly found a bar or two in a couple different parts of town to suit the needs of what ails one, dependent on one's desires. Different vibes for different outcomes. The food we have had, both traditional, local and 'western' have for the most part been really nice. There's enough information about where to eat online, so I won't go into too much detail on food and drink. The internet has all that info in spades already. A couple of brief mentions include 'Oliveo's', 'The Indian' 'Daebak' 'Angkor's House' and 'Onederz Cafe'. As far as western-esque bars are concerned, Mrs Normal and I were extremely happy to be introduced to Pomme Bar by our former western neighbour. The owner and his Khmer wife are absolutely lovely. The bar (as have all) has been through hard times but keeps its head above water thus far. It's an amazing space with an indoor/outdoor vibe. Incredible artwork by one of the Khmer staff that has to be seen to be believed. He is multi-talented, delivering murals and paintings in a myriad of different styles. The owners are very kind and affable doing their best to make the bar a really nice place to be. The music (by my tastes) is right on point and the atmosphere is exactly what I was hoping to find in a bar when we got here. I was very content with this find of an establishment and it is my first choice to go to of an evening.

We have rented a scooter (Honda Today), as well as mastered Food Panda and Pass App. All three of these actions have only compounded how enjoyable and easy things have been for us since we arrived. Any bumps in the road we have faced, (difficulty in language barriers, me losing the scooter fuel cap like a tit, a driver getting lost and abandoning our order, getting cartoonishly drenched by a passing jeep through a big puddle) have essentially been smiled off by us as we are just so bloody chuffed to be here experiencing all this.

My drive down to the Tonle Sap along the river was incredible. Like the journey to SR but even more intense on the back of a little scooter, alone, heading into the unknown, not even sure what's around the next corner. I just knew the lake was south and so off I went. Another incredible day, photographing a bunch of 'true life' shots down and around the boats. A second visit a week later with a Khmer friend I had made to assist me in translation and communication led to some truly incredible true-life shots that I will share with you all once I have the project complete. The character of some of these people and their resilience/life story is humbling at least, and overwhelming at times. Through my friend as interpreter, I was able to have some quite stark, fascinating and eye-opening conversations with a couple of subjects (a boatman, and a lady selling drying fish in particular) that people were happy to have. At no point did I prod or ask probing questions. Information came as we ate and talked together naturally. It was really quite something.

Part 2.5. Angkor Wat.

This post has already swelled into a great deal more than I had originally intended so all I will say about Angkor Wat in this thread is this;

Got year long passes. Left our home at 4.30. Arrived in the dark and walked up, over the bridge and into the central compound through the pre lit morning as the light just started turning the black sky a dusky blue/black. A deep silence punctuated with insect calls, combined with the dusty hues of dawn was truly something special. We saw the sun rise over the temple and really took our time exploring its corridors and mind-blowing beauty and history.

The whole time we were visiting the largest temple in the area, from 5.30am with sunrise (the classic shot) until we headed back to our driver at 8am, we were alone. Completely alone, apart from the guides, to walk and explore, view and climb to the top, all completely alone. With the help of the friendliest driver you could imagine, we were able to visit the 'main event', Banteay Kdei, Ta Prohm and Bayon completely by ourselves every time that morning. Standing atop the tower looking out over the temple and then the forest, the balm of the morning breeze, the insects and animals calling in the growth, and the otherwise physically tangible silence on top of that was a heavy duty experience I can tell you! The two of us exploring, discovering, amazed, emotional and with only the staff and cute monkeys sat dotted about to remind us other bipeds still exist. Otherwise, we were completely alone all throughout visit to every temple.

We had each wonder to ourselves. We are keenly aware of how rare this is. So much so that it was frankly one of the most incredible experiences of my life to date, and even more frankly, may be hard to top as far as unique experiences in the modern world are concerned. We consider ourselves tremendously lucky to have experienced this, and I cannot overstate the effect it had on me.

Part 3. Vaccinated.

This part is short too. We got vaccinated. Huzzah! Arrived super early in the morning, followed all the instructions we were given and there were no problems. Sure it was hot, and we waited outside, but we pretty much expected that. We came prepared. Some of the Barang's we 'heard' talking amongst themselves were probably the lowest part of our entire experience so far. There were all sorts of really nice Western and other Asian people amongst those in the line to get the shot, and we chatted with a few and had some great conversations and made a couple of friends. There are also some absolute arseholes amongst the expat community (of course there is, it's the same the world over), it was just odd to have them all squeezed into one place.

Part 4. Final Thoughts.

Well, this is a huge post now, and I thank you if you took the time to read it all. I hope you found it in some way informative, entertaining or just of interest to learn of another's experiences, thoughts and reactions in his first 4 months so far. I am so incredibly happy we made it. I am truly thankful to those of you who helped us get here. I haven't even written of the amazing cloud formations, impressive storms, wild heat and humidity spikes, the snake incident, and the kindness of my landlord and his family; they are truly wonderful people. But I have written enough for now, and I want to save some things to link my next story post in a few months with this one.

Until then, thanks for reading everyone. Questions happily can be answered should you have any. Depending on the question, I'll leave it to you to decide whether to post it or send a private message. Both are welcome. If you live in SR and think you might want to meet up at a bar or go for a walk or something once the various recent reds/yellows/oranges have ended (fingers crossed it’s soon), we’re keen to meet people and make friends.

All the best everyone.
Max :wave:
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John Bingham
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Re: 4 Months in Cambodia - Thoughts so far...

Post by John Bingham »

Good report. What's this "Big Angkor"?
Silence, exile, and cunning.
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nemo
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Re: 4 Months in Cambodia - Thoughts so far...

Post by nemo »

One of the best posts I have seen here.
Thanks Max!
Last edited by nemo on Mon Sep 20, 2021 11:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
Darkcel
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Re: 4 Months in Cambodia - Thoughts so far...

Post by Darkcel »

John Bingham wrote: Mon Sep 20, 2021 11:03 am Good report. What's this "Big Angkor"?
I think small angkors bigger brother
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bossho
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Re: 4 Months in Cambodia - Thoughts so far...

Post by bossho »

I read 4 or 5 lines so far and skimmed and made an appt to finish it later but right the f@#! on brother man, looks like i ll be vicariously riding along....
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phuketrichard
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Re: 4 Months in Cambodia - Thoughts so far...

Post by phuketrichard »

nice report;
Dam i miss my first experiences in SE Asia when everything was new and exciting
In a nation run by swine, all pigs are upward-mobile and the rest of us are fucked until we can put our acts together: not necessarily to win, but mainly to keep from losing completely. HST
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cabron
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Re: 4 Months in Cambodia - Thoughts so far...

Post by cabron »

phuketrichard wrote: Mon Sep 20, 2021 11:28 am nice report;
Dam i miss my first experiences in SE Asia when everything was new and exciting
Right, that was 20 years ago.
Boredom is like a shroud
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John Bingham
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Re: 4 Months in Cambodia - Thoughts so far...

Post by John Bingham »

cabron wrote: Mon Sep 20, 2021 11:43 am
phuketrichard wrote: Mon Sep 20, 2021 11:28 am nice report;
Dam i miss my first experiences in SE Asia when everything was new and exciting
Right, that was 20 years ago.
More like 45 years ago.
Silence, exile, and cunning.
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MaxNormal
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Re: 4 Months in Cambodia - Thoughts so far...

Post by MaxNormal »

John Bingham wrote: Mon Sep 20, 2021 11:03 am Good report. What's this "Big Angkor"?
It is what the westerners I have met call the large Angkor Supermarket on Route 6. There is a smaller one near to where we live also on Makara 7 so we refer to that one as Little Angkor.
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cabron
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Re: 4 Months in Cambodia - Thoughts so far...

Post by cabron »

John Bingham wrote: Mon Sep 20, 2021 11:48 am
cabron wrote: Mon Sep 20, 2021 11:43 am
phuketrichard wrote: Mon Sep 20, 2021 11:28 am nice report;
Dam i miss my first experiences in SE Asia when everything was new and exciting
Right, that was 20 years ago.
More like 45 years ago.
Yes thanks to the Internet and the social networks.
Boredom is like a shroud
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