Siem Reap destroyed

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John Bingham
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Re: Siem Reap destroyed

Post by John Bingham »

I was first in Siem Reap in early 2000, and probably didn't explore the "city" part enough, it seemed like a small village where I was staying near the crocodile farm. It had changed a whole lot by the time I was there again in 2006/ 2007. I remember going to that Irish bar Molly Malones but there wasn't much of a nightlife. The last times I was there was 2018/2019 and I was like WTF have they done here? National Route 6 was a real mess. All the traditional houses for 30km on the approach seemed to have warehouses or work-yards/ junk-yards in front, although I guess this isn't unique to that province. Nearer the city it was more like derelict hotel next to half built hotel next to empty lot next to operational hotel. It looked terrible. The center has been done up quite nicely though, and although I'm way past it now it seemed to have a vibrant pub street, way more than any place I've ever seen in the capital.
Anyway, besides the roadworks and thousands of defunct businesses it's a beautiful province if desperately poor outside of the provincial capital. There are loads of forests and birds and creatures. I'd love to spend some time there with one of those new 6 month passes if I ever got a break. 8)
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Alex
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Re: Siem Reap destroyed

Post by Alex »

So much doom and gloom. I'm sure Siem Reap will be just fine once tourism resumes. I'll be back.
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nemo
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Re: Siem Reap destroyed

Post by nemo »

I have lived in SR for 3 years and visited 4 years ago.
I have seen it crowded and vibrant and spent all of 2020 here..unable to do business travel.
I was able to keep finding better apartments for very reasonable year leases...the last 2 with generators and pools.
I worked on storm drain crews over 40 years ago, did dirt work, asphalt...concrete..you name it.
This latest project has been quit a mess.
It began by seeing people lose half or all of their homes or businesses...I have seen this in other countries so it is not something unexpected.....just sad after a year without income....moving walls, losing half a house, you name it...
Yes, the idea to finish a section and move on does seem more logical....this chaos is bizarre.
My one question is with all the road expansions and even new roads ...WHAT ABOUT THE BRIDGES?
Every project I ever did that crossed a creek, river, etc. had a new 4 lane bridge built next to the existing old narrow bridge.
There was renovation at Angkor Wat Complex last year...new roads..restaurants and shops moved to a new location off the main road...
I was there a few months before the elephants were shipped off....not a bad idea ....But, seeing elephants up close was a beautiful sight at Angkor Thom...with the Khmer boys riding....
I knew 4 years ago there were too many hotels,restaurants...etc.
In 2019 more were being built, loans taken...2020 was supposed to be a banner year...beautiful hotels never opened.
There has not been anything mentioned about the new airport 40 km towards PP..
It is going to be an entire new city in the future.
I suspect with casinos..buses..hotels..you name it...Old town Siem Reap will NEVER return to the old days.
Yes, the Piano Bar was open a few weeks ago as were many places. Sok San road was rocking on New Years eve 31,Jan that is and for months..up until recently...
There have been boat rides in Tonle Siem Reap for years and they had 5 Cat track loaders mucking it out not long ago..They have a shit ton of work to get it to the picture...I guess if chicago can dye the chicago river green for St. Patty the Khmer could too....yikes
A long way to go..and it has been raining like a motherfucker lately... Never know what is open or closed...I was laying low before...now, even more...
Siem Reap is a bucket list item for many people..But, it does not offer a reason to return....unless, like me, you enjoy it here.
I lived all over Cambodia and Thailand.
Siem Reap is my favorite ....The generator and large pool and great food shopping are big factors ....
Been confusion of late over curfews, alcohol, etc....
I stocked up and have a local tuk tuk guy who keeps me informed of talk on the street.
I send my Khmer lady to the markets lately.
But, usually go myself.
We both love to cook, so, I never eat out...
But, pies are available..Sunday roasts too..
I do not foresee tourists coming next year.
Who has any money for vacations to Cambodia?
There are many private schools near me...
They had reopened and the kids were back where they belong....closed again sadly.
Cheers...
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too hot ? in Siem Reap
Good first post. Very informative.
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Matty9999
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Re: Siem Reap destroyed

Post by Matty9999 »

Anyone met that American guy who comes upto you to tell you the story of him going to prison because he injured or killed a man during a robbery attempt? he hangs around the river area a bit away from sok san road.
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nemo
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Re: Siem Reap destroyed

Post by nemo »

Yeah- Khmerican guy? Scammer Steve.
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Re: Siem Reap destroyed

Post by Biffsm »

I met some decent blokes in a new place called Vily's Cafe...she cooks great food for expats and is trying to make a go of it...taking over a closed joint.
A pie man delivers pies she reheats, but, the rest is house made..
Kind of far since I moved across the river..
Construction and covid have closed the bridges lately..
I suspect with PP reopening...SR is going to do the same.
Yes, bird watching is great..
I live on top floor and nice grounds and trees and it is so nice to have birds ...Of course, a ride out into the country or down to the Tonle Sap would provide many ...
I do not miss crazy PP, fucked up Sihanouk or Kampot....I would like to be able to get on a fucking plane at SR airport though.
They have a tv channel that I used for years to check my flights or just peruse the myriad of flights coming in and out..
It has been blank for a year ...did have a flight in from PP...or to Sihanouk...once in a while.
Personally, I think it will be 5-10 years before this town has enough tourists to make difference.
So weird to see this collapse..
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ExPenhMan
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Re: Siem Reap destroyed

Post by ExPenhMan »

Biffsm wrote: Sat May 22, 2021 11:46 am I met some decent blokes in a new place called Vily's Cafe...she cooks great food for expats and is trying to make a go of it...taking over a closed joint.
A pie man delivers pies she reheats, but, the rest is house made..
Kind of far since I moved across the river..
Is it a bar/pub also? Got a street for the cafe? Can't find Vily's on Maps.
Construction and covid have closed the bridges lately..
I suspect with PP reopening...SR is going to do the same.
Yes, bird watching is great..
I live on top floor and nice grounds and trees and it is so nice to have birds ...Of course, a ride out into the country or down to the Tonle Sap would provide many ...
I do not miss crazy PP, fucked up Sihanouk or Kampot....I would like to be able to get on a fucking plane at SR airport though.
They have a tv channel that I used for years to check my flights or just peruse the myriad of flights coming in and out..
It has been blank for a year ...did have a flight in from PP...or to Sihanouk...once in a while.
Personally, I think it will be 5-10 years before this town has enough tourists to make difference.
So weird to see this collapse..
Thanks for the report.
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Re: Siem Reap destroyed

Post by Biffsm »

Vily's Cafe is on Funky Lane.
It was the T Bar...and still is on google map..
Very small....cozy.....
She made a new sign..
Funky Lane t's into Sak San road...
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Matty9999
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Re: Siem Reap destroyed

Post by Matty9999 »

nemo wrote: Sat May 22, 2021 11:24 am Yeah- Khmerican guy? Scammer Steve.
yes probably he told he was from oakland... when i met him he would walk up from different directions without my seeing where he was coming from... then id turn my head and he'd come from some other direction, it was strange. of course ive met homeless scammers in the states so im all the wiser.
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Re: Siem Reap destroyed

Post by Mostcurious »

MaxNormal wrote: Fri May 21, 2021 11:55 am
Mostcurious wrote: Fri May 21, 2021 1:43 am :oops:
MaxNormal wrote: Thu May 20, 2021 9:34 pm
But if one is seeking a developing country vibe, with lax (compared to the west) pace of life, attitude and availability of various pleasures, old school cultures brushing up alongside modernising attitudes and a deep sense of time (temples), not too much overdevelopment and concrete everywhere, smaller scale and traditional buildings mixed with small scale modern builds, little mom n pop shops, some no more than sheds, older colonial style stone buildings on the larger roads, cheap (again compared to the west) daily amenities, dusty streets with old cars and bikes on them, a world away from 'normal Western life' is this pocket of the KOW (SR) not still an amazing place to live for a while. I don't care for lots of tourists personally, but if they are there in the city centre that's fine too (Bali for example is awash in the main cities, but a few miles out and its richly old school and hardly a trustafarian in sight.)

Edits for phrasing
What on earth are you talking about ?
Seeking a developing country vibe ???
Availability of various pleasures ???
Deep sense of time ???
Little mom and pop shops ???
Colonial buildings on large roads ???
Dusty streets with old cars and bikes ???
You have completely lost me.
Developing country vibe - the atmosphere and culture in a developing country.

Availability of pleasures - affordable (compared to western standard pricing) food, drink, cigarettes etc...

Deep sense of time - One of the oldest and largest architectural wonders of the world

Little shops - small shops owned and ran by the same people, small building, small stock, few shelves, wooden buildings etc.

http://www.minisuitcase.co.uk/wp-conten ... C02172.jpg

Colonial buildings -
https://c8.alamy.com/comp/A9JA6K/the-ci ... A9JA6K.jpg

Dusty streets old cars etc - pretty straightforward no?

https://www.visit-angkor.org/wp-content ... m-reap.jpg

Im not sure why you didn't get at least the thrust of my imagery.
Thank you for the explanation, it seemed a little vague at first, now I understand what you mean.

With vast amounts of money being spent on infrastructure in and around Siem Reap, e.g. multi-lane highways, a brand new airport, do you think these small mum and pop businesses will survive ?
Will the old colonial buildings be knocked down to make way for modern high rise buildings ?
And who exactly is paying for all this ?

Have you been to Sihanoukville recently and seen how much it has changed ? Lots of new Casinos, the construction of hundreds of new tall buildings. Do you think the same thing will happen to Siem Reap ?
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