I just read Picasso Bar has re-opened. Red Piano has re-opened. It's all according to posts on the Siem Reap Expats and Locals FB pages, which I haven't visited since, oh, last autumn, I think.

The pages are full of restaurant, bar and other food promotions, some of which I don't remember being there the last time I visited, which would be about four years ago.. Lots of attractive apartments for rent at pretty good prices. It all appears to be very lively.

It seems the street reconstruction is still underway. Bang Bang Bakery took a photo outside their shop of a big hydraulic shovel and told customers how to get there now.

So what's the good and the bad?

Don't know about any of the bars, but the road construction is definitely still ongoing. Its a mess in various parts of town. No real tourism. And not too many people "out and about" other than going to work or school. If you like peace and quiet and road construction then you'll enjoy the visit.

Samrong01 is the one to ask. Generally what I heard is that Siem Reap is really suffering due to Covid. But it may be a good opportunity for just this reason.

Rents are rock bottom. 100 USD for a decent room plus utilities (government rate) was low 6 months ago, now it is middle class. Right now, 60-80 is a low price for a good room that would cost 4-6x in PP. Monthly, no long term contracts needed, no deposits.

Many food places have also lowered prices and 1.5 - 2 usd go a long way while you can spend much more if you like.

Angkor is now considerably cheaper as well.

Supermarkets have a much trimmed down range of fresh goods. Others are not replaced through new orders. But so far no problem. A solution is ordering from PP, costs perhaps 2-3 USD depending on size of orders (incl. 75 cents for wing). Takes about 24 hrs to be ready for pickup which is ok as the germs wont make it that long.

Svay Dongkum and Wat Bo areas are covered in dust. The city's very own anti-covid measure it seems. The dust is a problem as is the air pollution in PP. Depending on your location you will be doing good while in PP there is not escape.

Foreigners: A mixture of old residents, leftovers, bottom of the barrel, also many relocated from other places to SR for the time being.

Nightlife: People dont seem to be bored as the whole range is available.

SR is much safer than PP in terms of covid plus trafic and much better value.

Pizzalover wrote: ↑Fri Mar 19, 2021 8:36 pm Angkor is now considerably cheaper as well.

is the ticket discounted?
is angkor still deserted?

The streets are a mess, massive trenches being dug across main streets, back streets just uneven dirt roads. Ideal for an off-road biker. All bars are open but most are empty - went down Sok San Rd last Saturday, some bars had the odd patron but pretty quiet. Most restaurants are open but very few customers. Prices in general are low, easy to find a modern western style apartment, separate bedroom, in the 200 to 300 range. Police are tough here, on wednesday they closed down bars that had live music for St Patricks day, Mad Murphy's Irish bar was closed at 6pm by the cops. Overall, SR is a good place for expats wanting a quiet, cheap retirement and who dont mind a bit of 3rd world inconvenience. Hey, would you rather try to live on your pension somewhere 'civilised' like Leeds or Manchester?

lagrange wrote: ↑Sat Mar 20, 2021 8:36 am The streets are a mess, massive trenches being dug across main streets, back streets just uneven dirt roads. Ideal for an off-road biker. All bars are open but most are empty - went down Sok San Rd last Saturday, some bars had the odd patron but pretty quiet. Most restaurants are open but very few customers. Prices in general are low, easy to find a modern western style apartment, separate bedroom, in the 200 to 300 range. Police are tough here, on wednesday they closed down bars that had live music for St Patricks day, Mad Murphy's Irish bar was closed at 6pm by the cops. Overall, SR is a good place for expats wanting a quiet, cheap retirement and who dont mind a bit of 3rd world inconvenience. Hey, would you rather try to live on your pension somewhere 'civilised' like Leeds or Manchester?

Damn right on everything. Don't forget the dust and the myriad of closed roads which change every day. Not to mention frequent power cuts. Single lane highway towards the airport for all traffic including motos and bicycles. Its downright dangerous to ride a bicycle now.

Not sure about most restaurants open - there are lots of vacant commercial property (former restaurants) near the hospital and elsewhere. Lots of hotels to rent too for anyone wanting to be fleeced.

Phnom Poon wrote: ↑Fri Mar 19, 2021 9:00 pm

Pizzalover wrote: ↑Fri Mar 19, 2021 8:36 pm Angkor is now considerably cheaper as well.

is the ticket discounted?
is angkor still deserted?

No and yes. But now they give you 2 days for the price of one. Angkor is not entirely deserted - Khmer people still go there.

So, SR is in much like the condition noted in an earlier thread months ago. If you like to walk, drink and eat alone, with the bonus of filthy air, construction noise and power outages, SR is the place. Sad indeed.

Also sounds much like the situation in multiple Thai cities, such as Pattaya, Hua Hin and Koh Samui, to name a few. I watched four videos done in Koh Samui the last few months of 2020, nothing but deep desolation and even greater disarray than in Pattaya.

Yeah, I was looking for a light in end of the tunnel. I guess it was a stretch to think I'd bolt to Siem Reap in a month or two.

Many thanks for the reports, guys.

PS: Any idea of the timeline for the end of the street construction? At some point, I still hope to do a reconnaissance in SR.

PPS: I'm in Bangkok which is why I was asking for a State of Siem Reap report.

I just returned from a week long visit to Siem Reap. What strikes you first are the roads. Virtually all sidewalks throughout the city are dug up with dust blowing around. There are trenches on both sides of almost every small and large street. Access to shops is by narrow tracks of earth over the trenches. Plus standard road construction in many places, notably all NR6.

It may turn even worse soon in the rainy season, knee-deep mud instead of dust throughout. I read in the news that they plan to finish road construction by the end of this year. What they are doing is actually upgrading the water sewage system throughout the city - they put pipes and cables underground. Not sure why they needed to dig up all the roads at the same time and leave the trenches waiting, instead of going street by street...

Riding a bicycle is hell around town with dust and increased traffic on reduced lanes. Angkor is heaven on the other hand. But entry tickets are costly, and if you don't look like a Khmer, you will be caught by the pink-shirted park guards. We've had no issues when wearing masks, helmets, long trousers, flip flops and long sleeved shirts on a rented motorbike. But on a bicycle we were caught fast every time (even wearing masks + helmets). If you want to go to the Angkor area free, go on a motorbike and copy the dress code of any tuktuk driver.

You can now get a 1 year Angkor pass for $200. So if you want to stay long term I definitely recommend to invest in it! You will be able to escape the town anytime.

Pub Street seemed completely dead. An odd open but empty restaurant or pub or two is all there is. No music, no people, most venues just shut.

Almost all gyms are closed but a few are paying off the police and stay open. I will not share the details, but you will find them easily if you need a gym.

Food is best delivered - NHAM24 and Foodpanda have big discounts from standard restaurant walk in prices and deliver for free too. Makes no sense to battle the dust or pay for a tuktuk and pay double for the food to go out to eat. We were getting 3 meals a day delivered everyday via NHAM24. Saved probably $50 in a week compared to going to restaurants, and tried some fantastic new restaurants we would not discover otherwise. I recommend a place called 'Hey Bong' if you like healthy stuff (quinoa, vegetarian, protein shakes etc.) We usually spent $4-$6 per meal (total for 2 people = $2-3 per person) delivered.

Accommodation is at rock bottom prices. We stayed first at a 5***** rated hotel for $18 per night found on booking.com (I have a genius lvl2 discount, and the booking had to be pre-paid). After 2 days we moved to another 5-star (due to construction noise at the first one) at $23 a night, negotiated with the receptionist from $25. We got a free room upgrade too. There was only 1 more room occupied in the whole hotel apart from us (Khmer family). Note most hotels closed their F&B and facilities - no breakfast or restaurant, and due to electricity savings also lifts are out of service, air conditioning is off in the lobby. But swimming pools are open and you get a nice 5* room at a price you'd never dream of. They would probably agree to $450 a month if I wanted to stay long term.

If you want to stay in an apartment instead, negotiate long lease with the owner. Aim for $2000 for 1 year in a luxury, modern condo. Note electricity bills will almost double that unless you like stuffy rooms and cold showers, so I would probably stay in a luxury hotel instead, not to worry about bills and enjoy my daily hot bath tub in a cold 20-degree room.

On the flip side lots of construction, building, hammering everywhere, not only roads. Many owners renovate their buildings and businesses now while there are no tourists.

Unfortunately there are virtually no work or business opportunities in Siem Reap unless you are in construction or agriculture. Or something like car repairs. So likely you need a location-independent source of income.

In summary, if I wasn't stuck in Phnom Penh due to my work, I would be in Siem Reap with an annual Angkor pass, a new Macbook Air M1 and a 4G internet amidst the temples as my offices, staying long term in a 5-star hotel with food delivered daily, with a 30 minute bicycle or scooter ride as my commute.