Mrs Stroppy wrote: ↑Sat Jun 24, 2017 9:11 am

juansweetpotato wrote: ↑Thu Jun 22, 2017 9:42 pm

StroppyChops wrote: ↑Thu Jun 22, 2017 9:37 pm

juansweetpotato wrote: ↑Thu Jun 22, 2017 9:33 pm

StroppyChops wrote: ↑Thu Jun 22, 2017 9:27 pm
Can't find any reasonable data on whether a UPS kicks your power bill, half suggests no change, others suggest barely recordable change.

As I suggested in the above post, if you have a normal desktop with a 400w power supply, you just need a UPS that matches its power requirements - ie minimal consumption costs incurred for the UPS.

Oh, I understood you JSP, but it's hard to tell from your post if this is your view (and therefore correct ) or you're basing it on some science... obviously one would think that the bigger a UPS the bigger the net gain/loss in power, but then you start to consider Tesla's Powerwall, which is effectively a big UPS.

Ok Stroppy, time to get it out and show us. Just exactly how big is your telefunkun UPS?

This one's for Hanno. Tell Mrs Stroppy to cover her eyes.

Eyes are covered....

I got a UPS that has a green light and a yellow light and red light. Green is always on. If the yellow light blinks its being used, if it stay lit it has no issues. It clicks everytime before the yellow light blinks meaning some kind of voltage issue which happens a whole lot. Our house is decently far from the main street. Im American so I dont do well with meters but I would say two and a half full size soccer fields. Lets put it this way. The internet guys were not happy about how far they had to run the fiber optic line.

So what are you getting at? Does that make a difference?

ugh didnt mean to repost that video. Seriously WTF!

kyleincambo wrote: ↑Sat Jun 24, 2017 10:28 am

I got a UPS that has a green light and a yellow light and red light. Green is always on. If the yellow light blinks its being used, if it stay lit it has no issues. It clicks everytime before the yellow light blinks meaning some kind of voltage issue which happens a whole lot. Our house is decently far from the main street. Im American so I dont do well with meters but I would say two and a half full size soccer fields. Lets put it this way. The internet guys were not happy about how far they had to run the fiber optic line.

So what are you getting at? Does that make a difference?

Like I said in an above post, I did a job in SNVL with a business that was slightly further than your house appears to be from the post. It was measuring 160v most of the time. You can buy a ring meter for about $20 in the electrical shop at the top end of the Samudera Rd. Just opposite the market if you should want to. It sounds like it may be better to move eventually. But maybe best to check first.
Other jobs I did there I was getting a reading of about 180v lowest.

kyleincambo wrote: ↑Sat Jun 24, 2017 10:28 am
I got a UPS that has a green light and a yellow light and red light. Green is always on. If the yellow light blinks its being used, if it stay lit it has no issues. It clicks everytime before the yellow light blinks meaning some kind of voltage issue which happens a whole lot. Our house is decently far from the main street. Im American so I dont do well with meters but I would say two and a half full size soccer fields. Lets put it this way. The internet guys were not happy about how far they had to run the fiber optic line.

So what are you getting at? Does that make a difference?

Hi, I found this about low voltage conditions and computers. I hope it helps. It seems like you may be going way under the power supply's​ 180v limit for brown outs.


A brownout is an undervoltage condition, when the AC supply drops below the nominal value by about 10% (Nominal meaning 110-120 or 220-240 in most places). So in the US a brownout might be defined as the AC voltage dropping below 99V. The Intel specification for ATX power supplies specifies that voltages between 90 and 135, and 180 and 265 should allow correct power supply operation (section 3.1), so the power supply will still run normally even when a noticeable brownout occurs.

Some people also include very brief power dropouts (under 30mS, or about 2 AC cycles) as brownouts, as incandescent bulbs will briefly, but visibly, dim during that time similar to a real undervoltage condition.

In either case, Intel defines them as undervoltage conditions, and discusses what requirements an ATX power supply has to follow under such conditions in section 3.1.3 of Intel's ATX12V Power Supply Design Guide

The power supply shall contain protection circuitry such that the application of an input voltage below the minimum specified in Section 3.1, Table 1, shall not cause damage to the power supply.
Typically power supplies have an input section composed of a bunch of interesting circuitry that, at the end of the day, provides about 308 VAC to a transformer, which then powers the regulation and conditioning circuitry. This circuitry actually forms the major basis of the regulation circuitry, and if you are using less than the full wattage of the power supply may be able to manage with significant undervoltage conditions without falling out of regulation on the output side.

When a brownout occurs, the powersupply will attempt to deliver the rated current for as long as it can (based on the incoming voltage and current) and if it cannot maintain regulation it'll deassert the Power Good signal going to the motherboard. The motherboard is responsible for deasserting the power on signal going to the supply, and if it does so in time, then the supply will drop all its output and turn off.

If the motherboard fails to do this, the powersupply should drop its rails when it falls too far out of regulation, but that is not guaranteed, and with low quality power supplies you may find your components and motherboard receiving undervoltage conditions as well.

What happens at that point depends on how robust those components are, but it's generally not a good thing as the components attempt to operate at the lower voltage. Keep in mind that the power supply always supplies an undervoltage on power down for a brief time (dropping the outputs to 0 is not instantaneous) so very brief undervoltage periods are fine. The problem only occurs if the power supply remains in an undervoltage state for a long period of time, which can only occur if both the power supply and motherboard fail to realize the problem, and continue to attempt to operate.

Keep in mind that the Intel specification is not much more than an industry guideline, and there are no certifying bodies. Even good power supplies are not bound by any agreement to follow its recommendations. My favorite section is 3.1.5. I've seen many power supplies, both expensive and cheap, fail to keep those recommendations!

The specific effects differ depending on the component being discussed, which is really a separate discussion.

https://superuser.com/questions/113113/ ... so-harmful

Maybe a stupid question...you bought this stuff in the States...isn't everything in the States wired for 110V? If so, you may need a step-down transformer.

@vladimir A lot of powersupplies in computers, tv's, phone chargers etc.works in the ranges of 110 to 220 volt without any problem.

Ah, OK, thanks.

Q: How come so many desktop computers have problems with power leakages, ie you get a small shock from the metal casing? It seems to be quite common.

That's most static electricity, that can build up when there is no proper grounding. Many houses here don't have grounding (earth rod)

Thanks, Sw.

It's more likely to be a bad design in the computer than static. Static dissipates on its own in a humid climite​. You can test if it's static by touching something metal before touching the comp. If its still there, its not static. Some computers have the earth from the PSU and case wired at the same point. Not dangerous to yourself or the computer. Even Macs have it. We have no earthing out here, so you could put two crocodile clips onto a piece of wire, attach one end to a metal part of the computer and the other end to a metal coat hanger you opened up and shoved in the ground outside. That should get rid of it.