Honda the test journey
Re: Honda the test journey
I spent a lot of time and money having a mount 3d printed to fit on my full face helmet chinguard. This works perfeclty with almost no jitter because
1) the chin is close to your kneck pivot
2) wind drag if much less than on top or on side.
3) your body is antural shock absorber
I did experiment with mount on the bike but it just jumped around with every bump. On top of the helmet tugged my head back at speed, on the side pulled me one side or the other
Re: Honda the test journey
pczz I had only got the camera for safety in the way of a unforeseen accident. I actually bought it from a friend who has a phone shop, he bought it for security, but then moved to his new shop with fitted cameras. So end result, it had been used once and I got it with memory card for half price. The handlebar mount was actually missing so I made a new mount (rubber mounted). But like you point out it jitters, but the whole bike does because of what it is, also the road surface don't help.
I wish I knew I was going to do something like this, I would have not sold my bike gear but brought some of it here with me. My helmet boots and gloves should have been a must.
I wish I knew I was going to do something like this, I would have not sold my bike gear but brought some of it here with me. My helmet boots and gloves should have been a must.
Always "hope" but never "expect".
Re: Honda the test journey
Honda the test journey
Part two - Kampong Cham
I must say that I was happy with the choice of route from Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham, and the bikes performance was perfect and I think the bike has even more capabilities, it certainly has plenty enough power for most types of road here.
The onboard camera I decided to invest because of one of the posts, that of people bag snatching. I don’t have any intentions to use it for filming the trips, but I was mainly thinking of an incident or accident, and there has been many posts on the subject. Even if you would to be in the right, you would more likely to be in the wrong. Being an expat in a situation, now you are the payday provider and there are no doubts, having the incident on film may just help the situation in favour of what really happened, but then again possibly not, due to the odds being stacked up against you. Really who knows in the Kingdom of Wonder. The camera is a Remax HDDV and can be connected to smartphone via Wifi.
I would not change anything, that is apart from luggage situation, mentioned and appreciated by you good people. I will look into what I am going to do for the practicalities.
Although now I have taken some measurements, having some idea of what I will do. That is for me to make a rack to put on the rear when taking journeys or when needed. Receiving the comments from atst and phuketrichard, I decided to have a look at the possibilities of two hardcase lockable paniers, one on either side of the rear wheel like suggested, but having to work around the pillion’s legs and seating position. Possibly I will still carry a light bag on the tank with the thought of easy to get too, camera and Smartphone.
Oh, and the dogs, I can’t forget about the scraggy snapping mutts.
I don’t know why but I could not get this song out of my head after the time the dogs descended on us.
Siouxsie and the Banshees was a band that was best live to my liking, Siouxsie Sioux had so much energy giving a strong performance, the tune in my head was the haunting tune of the song “Pulled to bits” the whole double album certainly has many lyrics of the darker side.
Nocturne featured performances recorded at two shows at the Royal Albert Hall in London, on 30 September and 1 October 1983, featuring Robert Smith (of the Cure) on guitar.
Siouxsie and the Banshees, released Nocturne on 25 November 1983.
Tongues are clacking words of one vision
One tiny incision and teeth are cracking
On thin air, on thin air
And teeth are cracking on thin air
Pulled to bits in silence
Left rotting on the ground
Slowly pulled to bits in silence
Without a sound, without a sound
I was to read the following on Cambodian Expats Online -
Mission Rabies, the UK charity at the forefront of rabies elimination worldwide, is seeking volunteers to join their greatest project to date this November. The volunteers will be part of a pioneering project in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, where a child dies every week from rabies. The team’s mission will be to vaccinate 100,000 dogs in just ten days to protect the human population from this deadly, but entirely preventable, disease.
Too be honest these types of posts shock me.
1. 100,000 dogs is many, most I expect will be street dogs with no so-called owner.
2. Where a child dies every week from rabies.
3. Volunteers will be part of a pioneering project in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, that pay to do so £600 + £350 in fund raising.
Do the Cambodian government contribute to this project, or is it just cause to help the countries poor? Bill foot by donations to the charity. I don’t want to come across has speculating, but if a child died every week from a rabid street dog, surely the animals would have been culled in their masses. I must be missing something somewhere. Also, this kind of problem could be surely solved by the powers of Cambodia its self. Another I read about was asking for volunteers to track and record Cobras movements, another high-risk volunteer job, regarding that the possibility the volunteer could be bit, try finding antivenom if possible, it was not long ago the antivenom came from India and did not work here. Now things are apparently changing.
We had a quick visit to the Bamboo bridge on way, hoping to cross, but now only bicycles allowed. I had crossed it some years ago when it was the only way (and boat) to the island.
Arriving at Kampong Cham I rode up the riverside to the Mekong Crossing Hotel, where there is always a welcome with a friendly smile. I have stayed there many times over the past years among other places too, but overall, still it’s a good base with clean rooms, also restaurant with good food and service.
We showered with warm water, removing the red coloured road dust with ease, then taking a small rest with a cool drink in the room before riding out into the countryside to see the family.
Nice view of the Mekong river from the first floor also I see some disruption on the riverside promenade, looks like the bank has collapsed into the river, but never mind all that, sand is a good asset in these parts.
Looking toward the Kizuna Bridge on the left far bank there is The French Tower, commonly known as ‘The old French Lighthouse’ was built in the 1900s in Kampong Cham to overlook the Mekong. The tower served as a guard house to protect the rubber plantations against robbers who sometimes sneaked up the river.
The bridge was named as” Kizuna” meaning” tie” in English, and thus symbolizing a link between the eastern and the western sides of the Mekong River, and ties between the two peoples of Cambodia and Japan.
The road that runs upon it and beyond is the national road 7, reminding me that soon it is our direction to the family home, 70kl from the bridge then its Vietnam, I am not going that far.
So away we go and are too riding over the Kizuna Bridge, many people gather in the evenings for rod and line fishing or just to take in the cool breeze. We had an apartment 2 streets back from the river for some time in the city, so Nak my partner could be nearby, to have tests from the recommended doctors that she needed when she was diagnosed with her illness. The clinic is also well stocked and modern with good equipment. Although I don’t doubt the diagnoses, being doctors with overseas qualifications, and being of what I know and have seen from the results, scans, samples, blood tests, But I have little faith in general of Cambodian doctors. At the time they told me she would not see the year out, now we have passed two years; some days are not easy, my fingers tightly crossed for every next day for her.
Arriving at the family home the boys are fishing. It reminds me when I was that age, we played “out” mainly in the local woods building dens and dams, raiding apples and pears, picking blackberries, collecting conkers all in their season. I have gone home many times like that, my mother would be as mad as hell at times with me, making me strip off at the back door before entering the house. The good old days
We would visit again and also her sister and family while we were in town, they live in another area. I would find a thing or two to do also and keep myself occupied at times. Such has visiting the sister I spotted a Lotus farm nearby, so I would take a walk alone and hope to get some good photos, or even just enjoy the wonderful countryside. The sister and her husband were both at work at work and would not arrive home until 6pm.
I love this time out here in the countryside, and I don’t mind being alone. If Nak was with me she would be telling me it’s too hot and would have a good grumble. It is very hot I would agree, but that is how it is here. If you do the same take plenty of liquids and a hat or anything for shade, and enjoy. Although I was a little less prepared myself on this small outing. I think next time I would even be tempted to take an umbrella too, to keep some of that hot sun off me, being exposed even for a short time in the open landscape. One more thing is to be aware of things that my harm you, plants can be sharp, look were you walk, tread with care, snakes hunt, and like the warm sunrays, take care with every footstep has they blend in well. Best not to overexert oneself, being weary, tiredness will hinder your good judgement, it can be dangerous. I once scratched my leg, it seemed like nothing, three days later I had a wound, I was to visit the village doctor, using alcohol he was to scrub it clean while I was to grit my teeth, infection can be problematic.
The sun was setting I was just getting the last shots, then I saw the group of youngsters of the sister heading toward me. She had sent them to make sure I come back safely, after conversation, interpreted in my case.
A cool beer with a plate of egg and chips for myself, Nak eating Khmer country food enjoying the social time with her family.
We were heading in the cover of darkness back to town and our hotel. I am very alert of what is around me, trucks and cars, bicycles people and animals. Many times, on this road there is a police block operating too, and many truck drivers have tested positive for drug use at this particular spot.
But now nearing before the bridge the landscape is that similar to marsh land along both sides of the road, and it’s a little dark on that particular stretch, the last time on the road I thought a drainage pipe had fallen from a truck, I had to go far over to the left to avoid the obstacle. I pulled over and got off the bike to move it from the road, just in case someone was to have an accident. That was until I noticed it moving. Yes, very surprisingly that was a large python and soon passed into the undergrowth on the other side.
It was to be quite on the way back this evening, a few cars with their headlights on full beam approaching, drivers very unlikely or considerate to dip them at any time. Over the bridge and right at the roundabout one more right and near the hotel, being weekend it was busy on the Riverside with Khmers descending from Phnom Penh, but not as busy has I have seen in past times. Even so there was plenty of visitors, and the food vehicles and carts lined the roadside, restaurants facing the river being open for business has were the barbeque places toward the underside of the bridge.
Back at the hotel for a drink and a good night’s sleep, I wonder what we will decide to do tomorrow.
Sunset FinePix Edit - Pixlr
Part two - Kampong Cham
I must say that I was happy with the choice of route from Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham, and the bikes performance was perfect and I think the bike has even more capabilities, it certainly has plenty enough power for most types of road here.
The onboard camera I decided to invest because of one of the posts, that of people bag snatching. I don’t have any intentions to use it for filming the trips, but I was mainly thinking of an incident or accident, and there has been many posts on the subject. Even if you would to be in the right, you would more likely to be in the wrong. Being an expat in a situation, now you are the payday provider and there are no doubts, having the incident on film may just help the situation in favour of what really happened, but then again possibly not, due to the odds being stacked up against you. Really who knows in the Kingdom of Wonder. The camera is a Remax HDDV and can be connected to smartphone via Wifi.
I would not change anything, that is apart from luggage situation, mentioned and appreciated by you good people. I will look into what I am going to do for the practicalities.
Although now I have taken some measurements, having some idea of what I will do. That is for me to make a rack to put on the rear when taking journeys or when needed. Receiving the comments from atst and phuketrichard, I decided to have a look at the possibilities of two hardcase lockable paniers, one on either side of the rear wheel like suggested, but having to work around the pillion’s legs and seating position. Possibly I will still carry a light bag on the tank with the thought of easy to get too, camera and Smartphone.
Oh, and the dogs, I can’t forget about the scraggy snapping mutts.
I don’t know why but I could not get this song out of my head after the time the dogs descended on us.
Siouxsie and the Banshees was a band that was best live to my liking, Siouxsie Sioux had so much energy giving a strong performance, the tune in my head was the haunting tune of the song “Pulled to bits” the whole double album certainly has many lyrics of the darker side.
Nocturne featured performances recorded at two shows at the Royal Albert Hall in London, on 30 September and 1 October 1983, featuring Robert Smith (of the Cure) on guitar.
Siouxsie and the Banshees, released Nocturne on 25 November 1983.
Tongues are clacking words of one vision
One tiny incision and teeth are cracking
On thin air, on thin air
And teeth are cracking on thin air
Pulled to bits in silence
Left rotting on the ground
Slowly pulled to bits in silence
Without a sound, without a sound
I was to read the following on Cambodian Expats Online -
Mission Rabies, the UK charity at the forefront of rabies elimination worldwide, is seeking volunteers to join their greatest project to date this November. The volunteers will be part of a pioneering project in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, where a child dies every week from rabies. The team’s mission will be to vaccinate 100,000 dogs in just ten days to protect the human population from this deadly, but entirely preventable, disease.
Too be honest these types of posts shock me.
1. 100,000 dogs is many, most I expect will be street dogs with no so-called owner.
2. Where a child dies every week from rabies.
3. Volunteers will be part of a pioneering project in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, that pay to do so £600 + £350 in fund raising.
Do the Cambodian government contribute to this project, or is it just cause to help the countries poor? Bill foot by donations to the charity. I don’t want to come across has speculating, but if a child died every week from a rabid street dog, surely the animals would have been culled in their masses. I must be missing something somewhere. Also, this kind of problem could be surely solved by the powers of Cambodia its self. Another I read about was asking for volunteers to track and record Cobras movements, another high-risk volunteer job, regarding that the possibility the volunteer could be bit, try finding antivenom if possible, it was not long ago the antivenom came from India and did not work here. Now things are apparently changing.
We had a quick visit to the Bamboo bridge on way, hoping to cross, but now only bicycles allowed. I had crossed it some years ago when it was the only way (and boat) to the island.
Arriving at Kampong Cham I rode up the riverside to the Mekong Crossing Hotel, where there is always a welcome with a friendly smile. I have stayed there many times over the past years among other places too, but overall, still it’s a good base with clean rooms, also restaurant with good food and service.
We showered with warm water, removing the red coloured road dust with ease, then taking a small rest with a cool drink in the room before riding out into the countryside to see the family.
Nice view of the Mekong river from the first floor also I see some disruption on the riverside promenade, looks like the bank has collapsed into the river, but never mind all that, sand is a good asset in these parts.
Looking toward the Kizuna Bridge on the left far bank there is The French Tower, commonly known as ‘The old French Lighthouse’ was built in the 1900s in Kampong Cham to overlook the Mekong. The tower served as a guard house to protect the rubber plantations against robbers who sometimes sneaked up the river.
The bridge was named as” Kizuna” meaning” tie” in English, and thus symbolizing a link between the eastern and the western sides of the Mekong River, and ties between the two peoples of Cambodia and Japan.
The road that runs upon it and beyond is the national road 7, reminding me that soon it is our direction to the family home, 70kl from the bridge then its Vietnam, I am not going that far.
So away we go and are too riding over the Kizuna Bridge, many people gather in the evenings for rod and line fishing or just to take in the cool breeze. We had an apartment 2 streets back from the river for some time in the city, so Nak my partner could be nearby, to have tests from the recommended doctors that she needed when she was diagnosed with her illness. The clinic is also well stocked and modern with good equipment. Although I don’t doubt the diagnoses, being doctors with overseas qualifications, and being of what I know and have seen from the results, scans, samples, blood tests, But I have little faith in general of Cambodian doctors. At the time they told me she would not see the year out, now we have passed two years; some days are not easy, my fingers tightly crossed for every next day for her.
Arriving at the family home the boys are fishing. It reminds me when I was that age, we played “out” mainly in the local woods building dens and dams, raiding apples and pears, picking blackberries, collecting conkers all in their season. I have gone home many times like that, my mother would be as mad as hell at times with me, making me strip off at the back door before entering the house. The good old days
We would visit again and also her sister and family while we were in town, they live in another area. I would find a thing or two to do also and keep myself occupied at times. Such has visiting the sister I spotted a Lotus farm nearby, so I would take a walk alone and hope to get some good photos, or even just enjoy the wonderful countryside. The sister and her husband were both at work at work and would not arrive home until 6pm.
I love this time out here in the countryside, and I don’t mind being alone. If Nak was with me she would be telling me it’s too hot and would have a good grumble. It is very hot I would agree, but that is how it is here. If you do the same take plenty of liquids and a hat or anything for shade, and enjoy. Although I was a little less prepared myself on this small outing. I think next time I would even be tempted to take an umbrella too, to keep some of that hot sun off me, being exposed even for a short time in the open landscape. One more thing is to be aware of things that my harm you, plants can be sharp, look were you walk, tread with care, snakes hunt, and like the warm sunrays, take care with every footstep has they blend in well. Best not to overexert oneself, being weary, tiredness will hinder your good judgement, it can be dangerous. I once scratched my leg, it seemed like nothing, three days later I had a wound, I was to visit the village doctor, using alcohol he was to scrub it clean while I was to grit my teeth, infection can be problematic.
The sun was setting I was just getting the last shots, then I saw the group of youngsters of the sister heading toward me. She had sent them to make sure I come back safely, after conversation, interpreted in my case.
A cool beer with a plate of egg and chips for myself, Nak eating Khmer country food enjoying the social time with her family.
We were heading in the cover of darkness back to town and our hotel. I am very alert of what is around me, trucks and cars, bicycles people and animals. Many times, on this road there is a police block operating too, and many truck drivers have tested positive for drug use at this particular spot.
But now nearing before the bridge the landscape is that similar to marsh land along both sides of the road, and it’s a little dark on that particular stretch, the last time on the road I thought a drainage pipe had fallen from a truck, I had to go far over to the left to avoid the obstacle. I pulled over and got off the bike to move it from the road, just in case someone was to have an accident. That was until I noticed it moving. Yes, very surprisingly that was a large python and soon passed into the undergrowth on the other side.
It was to be quite on the way back this evening, a few cars with their headlights on full beam approaching, drivers very unlikely or considerate to dip them at any time. Over the bridge and right at the roundabout one more right and near the hotel, being weekend it was busy on the Riverside with Khmers descending from Phnom Penh, but not as busy has I have seen in past times. Even so there was plenty of visitors, and the food vehicles and carts lined the roadside, restaurants facing the river being open for business has were the barbeque places toward the underside of the bridge.
Back at the hotel for a drink and a good night’s sleep, I wonder what we will decide to do tomorrow.
Sunset FinePix Edit - Pixlr
Always "hope" but never "expect".
Re: Honda the test journey
In the evening walk right from hotel along riverside not far you come to an open area with a few food and cocktail Bars lovely sitting on the deck chairs enjoying a Margirita
If you decide to head towards Kratie cross the bridge and follow the river side the roads fairly new cement you'll notice lots of Islam community along the way
Careful getting the luggage racks your girl will then find more luggage to take, I managed to get mine down from 7 backpacks to one and a large suitcase, I'm slowly working on reducing these.
If you decide to head towards Kratie cross the bridge and follow the river side the roads fairly new cement you'll notice lots of Islam community along the way
Careful getting the luggage racks your girl will then find more luggage to take, I managed to get mine down from 7 backpacks to one and a large suitcase, I'm slowly working on reducing these.
I'm standing up, so I must be straight.
What's a poor man do when the blues keep following him around.(Smoking Dynamite)
What's a poor man do when the blues keep following him around.(Smoking Dynamite)
Re: Honda the test journey
In the early years of my biking back at home. I would carry my camping gear on top of what I carry on the bike today. But then again in later years if I was to do the same, I would put the camping gear and bike in the back of the van.atst wrote: ↑Mon Apr 06, 2020 6:35 am In the evening walk right from hotel along riverside not far you come to an open area with a few food and cocktail Bars lovely sitting on the deck chairs enjoying a Margirita
If you decide to head towards Kratie cross the bridge and follow the river side the roads fairly new cement you'll notice lots of Islam community along the way
Careful getting the luggage racks your girl will then find more luggage to take, I managed to get mine down from 7 backpacks to one and a large suitcase, I'm slowly working on reducing these.
Yes, I understand well on the luggage department, and talked a little about it on one of the last threads, I think the journey over to Kampong Cham time before last on the Honda MSX, that being a small engine bike and considering the distance and time that we would spend of the trip I managed to get the luggage down to one bag between us both, it was a struggle to do this, with me saying it’s no problem that she could take what she wanted, on the bus. We had two to three changers of cloths, acceptable I thought, she would still do the cloth washing every evening as normal, so never dirty cloths. This trip was different and plans what I had in mind was going to be far longer, bigger bike and two bags was not really that much of a problem. Safety wise I could operate all the controls as normal; the bags were tightly fastened against the tank. Possibly on the photo with the bike on the ferry the load didn’t look good, but here I had been in the bags for something, once on the other bank they were re-strapped again before continuing on. But overall if I am going to carry on with the road trips, the luggage situation, yourself and Richard had mentioned is a far better idea.
I had considered Kampong Cham to Kratie, on the road you suggest, I have been so far and even stayed on that side of the river in past years, also visiting the Sunflower fields, that’s certainly worth the visit. Also, I had plans, at some time to visit the Old Mosque Tower at Krouch Chhmar.
I considered the journey up the opposite riverbank to take the ferry over to Kratie, then back down the other bank has you suggest, that alone is worthy of a good trip. But see the next edition of the trip coming soon!
Thankyou once again for your kind comment. Happy you enjoy.
Always "hope" but never "expect".
Re: Honda the test journey
Wish I was there doing what you're doing instead of being stuck at my daughter's place in Australia unable to even visit friends , can only go out to shops, doctors, exercise
Bet it's a bit quieter on the road nowadays which is good for you.
Bet it's a bit quieter on the road nowadays which is good for you.
I'm standing up, so I must be straight.
What's a poor man do when the blues keep following him around.(Smoking Dynamite)
What's a poor man do when the blues keep following him around.(Smoking Dynamite)
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Clutch Cargo
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Re: Honda the test journey
^^^^^^^
Yeah, it's a great time to be out and about on the moto. I haven't ventured out of PP like the OP but have enjoyed extended local trips that I wouldn't have otherwise done under normal circumstances.
Yeah, it's a great time to be out and about on the moto. I haven't ventured out of PP like the OP but have enjoyed extended local trips that I wouldn't have otherwise done under normal circumstances.
Re: Honda the test journey
I have not been out of the apartment for over a week, only to renew my visa.clutchcargo wrote: ↑Mon Apr 06, 2020 8:05 pm ^^^^^^^
Yeah, it's a great time to be out and about on the moto. I haven't ventured out of PP like the OP but have enjoyed extended local trips that I wouldn't have otherwise done under normal circumstances.
Always "hope" but never "expect".
Re: Honda the test journey
Honda the test journey
Part three - Kampong Cham
Nak my partner and traveling companion. awakens me, with a hot Cambodian strong coffee, accompanied with a pineapple pancake and a serving of honey, this morning it was very welcoming, time for breakfast in bed. I am not always wanting food in the mornings, a coffee or two is the name of the game, it must be the kick of the caffeine, it’s just how I am, maybe you could call it adaptation. Let me explain -
Of my last ten years of my work profession and business, and being my place of work the boundaries being that of the coastline of the UK. I would work 15 to 18 hours per day on my contracts, one reason is working away from home, the second was if I failed the jobs deadline I would be penalised at cost, meaning I would have to pay a daily rate too my employers, both aspects could cost me monies either way, even more so with new European rules creeping in, then being taken on at gospel (where it was suited) usually by the main contractor running the site, (the middle man) and that was mainly down to one of those had to be on site if some contractor was working. Health and safety mostly good and necessary in the workers interests, but in saying this there are the few that will use the situation too their own means, but H&S bode very well for the petroleum companies. This contract that I was involved in was for Esso, the sites were in the livery brand of Total, apart from the main company sites the French petroleum company had sold all their independent dealer sites, a Muslim group in Lancashire I have known over the years had just increased their existing 50 sites to another 125 new Esso sites I was now working on to be completed by a deadline. That morning I had finished a site on the south coast, so I drove to the next job in London, 4pm arrived and got all my paperwork signed and started work on the small site with four petroleum dispensers, thinking if we got a bit of prep work done easy sailing for tomorrow being Friday. We had done better by painting the pump bodies too, leaving the pump panels to paint and put on the new vinyl of Esso, it helps too when it’s a closed site. But oil companies will only close for 3 days. 10pm we were in one of the towns take-aways before heading to the hotel, shower, eat and sleep was the norm.
Now with a full belly and showered, we sat in the outside part of the restaurant, one more coffee was ordered while we decided on were, we would want to visit. The journey today was not going to be that of a long distance, more due to my partners unfortunate illness, it is honesty getting more difficult to go anywhere these days.
Anyhow I took the decision, I always ask her what and where she would like to go and what to see, but she said it was up to me, so I decided on where. It was also a place I had been meaning to visit but never got there for some reason. We would simply take a lazy day, more so because she was not of her best today. We would follow the road at the side of the river for 22km too Hanchey Temple, that was our plan, being a short leisurely ride taking in the view of the Mekong river and the surroundings, now being that of mid-morning.
The restaurant waiter had already put the bike outside for us, and my daypack was ready with batteries charged for the camera, also a couple of phones fully charged too. I turned on the bikes fuel tap, slowly eased the kickstart a few times, flicked the kill-switch to the run position and kicked once, the engine started with its deep tune, leaving off the throttle until its warmed up a little, then a little twist and “rasssssssp” is the sound from the aftermarket end-can, and very responsive on the throttle. I personally think its setup with the reeves being a little high, due to when the bike is first running you have to leave off the throttle for a little or the engine will die, this I need to sort out, but I would say by elimination! Such as would it be a simple task by only the cables from the throttle to the carburettor, or is it going to be that of a more complex job in stripping the carb. Actually, that would not be a bad idea, but not at this time, a better job for when we return home.
So off we go on the journey, out the hotel to the riverside road and left turn. The road was very quiet but the temperature of the day being very hot. We followed the road towards the night market and then right turn with the river on our right side, then up the top of the hill bearing left past the busy shops and small market stalls, then first right still following road PR222, this would take us all the way to Hanchey Temple.
How good plans go wrong! After some distance there was a sign in the road, but I could not read the Khmer written on it, so slowly I carried on forward until another sign with an arrow pointing from it into someone’s garden. Past the sign first I wanted still to look ahead. We came too some very large gates across the road, one side was open, but on observation it was like a building site, so I turned around to the sign. Nak got off the bike, I would ride the bike alone down the steep garden path to the front of the house, there an old lady sat, Nak asked the lady where we were to go, the lady replied around to the back of the house and onwards. Nak got back on the bike and we followed the sandy pathways past many more houses to a wooded area, there, kids were playing, they guided us to what paths and direction to go, Nak handed one of the kids a little money for their help. That was the diversion due to the bridge being under repair. We stopped at the top of the bank! “Shit” that was steep and a long way down, and same up the other bank on the opposite side. Nak again wanted to get off “so did I” but I told her to stay on. The bank was in two stages on both sides, down at an angle then one left turn down a very steep part to the makeshift pontoon bridge, then same again on the other bank. It was the case of caution and very steady away, low gear and let the engine do much of the braking due to it also being very sandy. Across the pontoon bridge giving the bike a little throttle for the climb on the other side, passing the group of police officers when we mounted the top, the bike surprised me with how easy that was to be, with the torque of the single 400cc engine maybe I should not be surprised. Soon we were once more following the road at the side of the Mekong.
At times I find myself wondering, also thinking about times of my life before I came to Cambodia, such has the story I started to tell you before, I bet there was many with similar past experiences, l will finish the tail of past work -
In the morning on arrival to the service station was somewhat a different story! I was told I was not allowed to work, this apparently due to working too many hours the day before. I was sat in the van not allowed on site waiting for Esso to call me. I expected a call at 9am three hours after I had arrived to work, the phone call came at 11.55am, now I was beginning to understand. I had been watched on CTV but by a 9 to 5 health and safety officer who now told me I could come back on Monday to finish off the work then go on to my next job. I replied my job on Monday is in Edinburgh and would be easier to travel from home then doing an extra 500 miles that day on returning here. He asked me then if it was possible, I could complete this work today, after he had lost me the full mornings work due to me working overly way too much in his opinion, If it did not snow or pore with rain, that was the other problem, most of my contracts came in the winter months up to the new tax year in April when the Oil Companies wanted their work completed up to their spending budgets. Even so, I had my work because I was reliable in completing on time, that is what the main contractors aim is to do, and the customer to get his site for the date of completion, but there’s always an occasion to make things just a tad difficult at times for the ones working so the goals can be met, strong coffee is desirable.
It was very hot that afternoon and no shade to speak of, the road narrow and fairly busy, the usual being of animals, people and children, not too many vehicles, but enough to worry about. Left turn up the hillside but no signs for direction to the temple. After a little run around in different directions, we were to ride into the temple grounds.
I parked the bike where we had a view of the big river from above, more importantly shade of the pagodas, but still it was hot under the tin roofs. Nak wandered off to the many refreshment stalls, unfortunately for them, they had very few customers. She returned with cold drinks and ice cream, we sat and took in the views from the top of the hillside enjoying our needy cool refreshments.
It was peaceful with not many visitors, and did we know about it! Coved19 now looming has a world pandemic. With a boat full of holiday passengers now being quarantined in a hotel around the corner from the hotel we are staying. I knew nothing of this at the time, that is the paying western holiday makers whom tested positive of the virus, but you see my partners family members and friends knew all about what was going on, the peasant farmers out in the sticks received news fast, at the time I just brushed it off being gossip. That was until later when at the hotel I realised it was not only the sound of distant drums and hearsay in the countryside. This was for real, and because the people on the boat were westerners, people were believing all pale skinned foreigners maybe bringing the deadly virus. The hotel restaurant had now a policeman resident and later in the evening he was joined by other officers keeping an eye on visitors, I was asked by the police where my mask was, It was only a few days ago the big boss said no need for these, the police told Nak next time they see me I had to be wearing a mask. You know the feeling when you get singled out, now I had that deep feeling. The hotel owner, considered a friend, has we go back sometime and the last time we met was at his mother’s funeral, now he was not really talking, being honest he just wanted to close the hotel, with not many visitors also, but not wanting any hassle, I have to feel sorry for him and his family in this position, but they are like many other business in the area that will have little guests, due to their overall customers being that of westerners.
In the distance I saw there was a little gardening going on, soon the light will fade, then I will miss the opportunity.
On the way over the courtyard towards the garden, was the Hindu Hanchey Temple. Standing not far from it was that of another fine Temple. I did have a wonder around them, but to me with viewing them from a distance was just as well.
Over to the garden area, like most other temples I have visited before. I find that these areas are very well tended by care of that of the monks. Bougainvillea Spectabilis and Cassia abbrenate with others of such likes from the Rubiaceae family were in good flower.
The monk who I saw first tending to the flowers, had wandered off, there I saw him sitting alone, seemingly in deep thought away from the others, so obviously wanting time alone. I carried on with a few more photos and wandered slowly back towards Nak taking snaps has I went.
I moved the bike to the far side of the newer temple, seeing if there was anything more of interest. I would have thought that the old temple standing behind the new was actually that of the old seventh century structure of the Hindu Hanchey Temple.
There are quite a number of temples at the Hanchey site to keep ones self-occupied, that is of course if you enjoy the architecture of such, if not it probably worth the trip just for the view alone of the Mekong river.
Light was dwindling fast now, so just a short time before our journey back towards town, which I knew was going to be in darkness.
Time to go, I took the steep road down the hillside of this side of the temple courtyard, soon we joined the main road along the riverside, when we came to were the houses lined the roadside it was dark, there was lots of smoke in the air too from the roadside fires, headlights blinding as traffic came toward me, it was not easy to see so clearly, and it was littered with plenty of activity alongside the road and on it too. People and the usual dogs, bicycle’s Motos and cars, plus the odd heard of cattle being driven home for the night after the days grazing, and once again many wedding parties, this is how I see rural Cambodia.
Now heading back, I too like the monk who seemed to be occupied with thought, mine was on the actual town and the hotel, actually it was on more, the whole aspect of Covid19. How bad would it get in Cambodia, how are my family coping with this pandemic in England? I questioned myself, have I made the right decision to stay in this country, more so at this difficult time.
Part three - Kampong Cham
Nak my partner and traveling companion. awakens me, with a hot Cambodian strong coffee, accompanied with a pineapple pancake and a serving of honey, this morning it was very welcoming, time for breakfast in bed. I am not always wanting food in the mornings, a coffee or two is the name of the game, it must be the kick of the caffeine, it’s just how I am, maybe you could call it adaptation. Let me explain -
Of my last ten years of my work profession and business, and being my place of work the boundaries being that of the coastline of the UK. I would work 15 to 18 hours per day on my contracts, one reason is working away from home, the second was if I failed the jobs deadline I would be penalised at cost, meaning I would have to pay a daily rate too my employers, both aspects could cost me monies either way, even more so with new European rules creeping in, then being taken on at gospel (where it was suited) usually by the main contractor running the site, (the middle man) and that was mainly down to one of those had to be on site if some contractor was working. Health and safety mostly good and necessary in the workers interests, but in saying this there are the few that will use the situation too their own means, but H&S bode very well for the petroleum companies. This contract that I was involved in was for Esso, the sites were in the livery brand of Total, apart from the main company sites the French petroleum company had sold all their independent dealer sites, a Muslim group in Lancashire I have known over the years had just increased their existing 50 sites to another 125 new Esso sites I was now working on to be completed by a deadline. That morning I had finished a site on the south coast, so I drove to the next job in London, 4pm arrived and got all my paperwork signed and started work on the small site with four petroleum dispensers, thinking if we got a bit of prep work done easy sailing for tomorrow being Friday. We had done better by painting the pump bodies too, leaving the pump panels to paint and put on the new vinyl of Esso, it helps too when it’s a closed site. But oil companies will only close for 3 days. 10pm we were in one of the towns take-aways before heading to the hotel, shower, eat and sleep was the norm.
Now with a full belly and showered, we sat in the outside part of the restaurant, one more coffee was ordered while we decided on were, we would want to visit. The journey today was not going to be that of a long distance, more due to my partners unfortunate illness, it is honesty getting more difficult to go anywhere these days.
Anyhow I took the decision, I always ask her what and where she would like to go and what to see, but she said it was up to me, so I decided on where. It was also a place I had been meaning to visit but never got there for some reason. We would simply take a lazy day, more so because she was not of her best today. We would follow the road at the side of the river for 22km too Hanchey Temple, that was our plan, being a short leisurely ride taking in the view of the Mekong river and the surroundings, now being that of mid-morning.
The restaurant waiter had already put the bike outside for us, and my daypack was ready with batteries charged for the camera, also a couple of phones fully charged too. I turned on the bikes fuel tap, slowly eased the kickstart a few times, flicked the kill-switch to the run position and kicked once, the engine started with its deep tune, leaving off the throttle until its warmed up a little, then a little twist and “rasssssssp” is the sound from the aftermarket end-can, and very responsive on the throttle. I personally think its setup with the reeves being a little high, due to when the bike is first running you have to leave off the throttle for a little or the engine will die, this I need to sort out, but I would say by elimination! Such as would it be a simple task by only the cables from the throttle to the carburettor, or is it going to be that of a more complex job in stripping the carb. Actually, that would not be a bad idea, but not at this time, a better job for when we return home.
So off we go on the journey, out the hotel to the riverside road and left turn. The road was very quiet but the temperature of the day being very hot. We followed the road towards the night market and then right turn with the river on our right side, then up the top of the hill bearing left past the busy shops and small market stalls, then first right still following road PR222, this would take us all the way to Hanchey Temple.
How good plans go wrong! After some distance there was a sign in the road, but I could not read the Khmer written on it, so slowly I carried on forward until another sign with an arrow pointing from it into someone’s garden. Past the sign first I wanted still to look ahead. We came too some very large gates across the road, one side was open, but on observation it was like a building site, so I turned around to the sign. Nak got off the bike, I would ride the bike alone down the steep garden path to the front of the house, there an old lady sat, Nak asked the lady where we were to go, the lady replied around to the back of the house and onwards. Nak got back on the bike and we followed the sandy pathways past many more houses to a wooded area, there, kids were playing, they guided us to what paths and direction to go, Nak handed one of the kids a little money for their help. That was the diversion due to the bridge being under repair. We stopped at the top of the bank! “Shit” that was steep and a long way down, and same up the other bank on the opposite side. Nak again wanted to get off “so did I” but I told her to stay on. The bank was in two stages on both sides, down at an angle then one left turn down a very steep part to the makeshift pontoon bridge, then same again on the other bank. It was the case of caution and very steady away, low gear and let the engine do much of the braking due to it also being very sandy. Across the pontoon bridge giving the bike a little throttle for the climb on the other side, passing the group of police officers when we mounted the top, the bike surprised me with how easy that was to be, with the torque of the single 400cc engine maybe I should not be surprised. Soon we were once more following the road at the side of the Mekong.
At times I find myself wondering, also thinking about times of my life before I came to Cambodia, such has the story I started to tell you before, I bet there was many with similar past experiences, l will finish the tail of past work -
In the morning on arrival to the service station was somewhat a different story! I was told I was not allowed to work, this apparently due to working too many hours the day before. I was sat in the van not allowed on site waiting for Esso to call me. I expected a call at 9am three hours after I had arrived to work, the phone call came at 11.55am, now I was beginning to understand. I had been watched on CTV but by a 9 to 5 health and safety officer who now told me I could come back on Monday to finish off the work then go on to my next job. I replied my job on Monday is in Edinburgh and would be easier to travel from home then doing an extra 500 miles that day on returning here. He asked me then if it was possible, I could complete this work today, after he had lost me the full mornings work due to me working overly way too much in his opinion, If it did not snow or pore with rain, that was the other problem, most of my contracts came in the winter months up to the new tax year in April when the Oil Companies wanted their work completed up to their spending budgets. Even so, I had my work because I was reliable in completing on time, that is what the main contractors aim is to do, and the customer to get his site for the date of completion, but there’s always an occasion to make things just a tad difficult at times for the ones working so the goals can be met, strong coffee is desirable.
It was very hot that afternoon and no shade to speak of, the road narrow and fairly busy, the usual being of animals, people and children, not too many vehicles, but enough to worry about. Left turn up the hillside but no signs for direction to the temple. After a little run around in different directions, we were to ride into the temple grounds.
I parked the bike where we had a view of the big river from above, more importantly shade of the pagodas, but still it was hot under the tin roofs. Nak wandered off to the many refreshment stalls, unfortunately for them, they had very few customers. She returned with cold drinks and ice cream, we sat and took in the views from the top of the hillside enjoying our needy cool refreshments.
It was peaceful with not many visitors, and did we know about it! Coved19 now looming has a world pandemic. With a boat full of holiday passengers now being quarantined in a hotel around the corner from the hotel we are staying. I knew nothing of this at the time, that is the paying western holiday makers whom tested positive of the virus, but you see my partners family members and friends knew all about what was going on, the peasant farmers out in the sticks received news fast, at the time I just brushed it off being gossip. That was until later when at the hotel I realised it was not only the sound of distant drums and hearsay in the countryside. This was for real, and because the people on the boat were westerners, people were believing all pale skinned foreigners maybe bringing the deadly virus. The hotel restaurant had now a policeman resident and later in the evening he was joined by other officers keeping an eye on visitors, I was asked by the police where my mask was, It was only a few days ago the big boss said no need for these, the police told Nak next time they see me I had to be wearing a mask. You know the feeling when you get singled out, now I had that deep feeling. The hotel owner, considered a friend, has we go back sometime and the last time we met was at his mother’s funeral, now he was not really talking, being honest he just wanted to close the hotel, with not many visitors also, but not wanting any hassle, I have to feel sorry for him and his family in this position, but they are like many other business in the area that will have little guests, due to their overall customers being that of westerners.
In the distance I saw there was a little gardening going on, soon the light will fade, then I will miss the opportunity.
On the way over the courtyard towards the garden, was the Hindu Hanchey Temple. Standing not far from it was that of another fine Temple. I did have a wonder around them, but to me with viewing them from a distance was just as well.
Over to the garden area, like most other temples I have visited before. I find that these areas are very well tended by care of that of the monks. Bougainvillea Spectabilis and Cassia abbrenate with others of such likes from the Rubiaceae family were in good flower.
The monk who I saw first tending to the flowers, had wandered off, there I saw him sitting alone, seemingly in deep thought away from the others, so obviously wanting time alone. I carried on with a few more photos and wandered slowly back towards Nak taking snaps has I went.
I moved the bike to the far side of the newer temple, seeing if there was anything more of interest. I would have thought that the old temple standing behind the new was actually that of the old seventh century structure of the Hindu Hanchey Temple.
There are quite a number of temples at the Hanchey site to keep ones self-occupied, that is of course if you enjoy the architecture of such, if not it probably worth the trip just for the view alone of the Mekong river.
Light was dwindling fast now, so just a short time before our journey back towards town, which I knew was going to be in darkness.
Time to go, I took the steep road down the hillside of this side of the temple courtyard, soon we joined the main road along the riverside, when we came to were the houses lined the roadside it was dark, there was lots of smoke in the air too from the roadside fires, headlights blinding as traffic came toward me, it was not easy to see so clearly, and it was littered with plenty of activity alongside the road and on it too. People and the usual dogs, bicycle’s Motos and cars, plus the odd heard of cattle being driven home for the night after the days grazing, and once again many wedding parties, this is how I see rural Cambodia.
Now heading back, I too like the monk who seemed to be occupied with thought, mine was on the actual town and the hotel, actually it was on more, the whole aspect of Covid19. How bad would it get in Cambodia, how are my family coping with this pandemic in England? I questioned myself, have I made the right decision to stay in this country, more so at this difficult time.
Always "hope" but never "expect".
Re: Honda the test journey
Honda the test journey
Part Four – Leaving Kampong Cham to Where?
Where was the question, our aim was the temples of Angkor, that journey is some distance away for now?
The day came when my friend the hotel owner and his family wanted to close up shop, his other guests were leaving today and he had been kindly asking us each day when we were thinking of going, they did not rush us away, we spent some time with them in the morning has they planned to close around mid-day. He seemed under pressure at the time of our stay, but that was in the evening time mostly when police would be sat at the restaurant, and for him and his young family obviously didn’t need any unpleasantries for them or guests. Being fair most of his customers are that of western tourists, and now there was very few of them around, and other places were closing too, but more so in this area due the tourist boat passengers in quarantine just round the corner.
I packed up the bike ready for our onward journey at noon, and that time soon came, so it was time to say goodbye once more to our hosts and their staff wishing them all well, has they said the same to us too, we have always got on and enjoyed our stays there, one of the staff helped us find our accommodation in town a few years ago.
We slowly road up the street towards the market, time to wave to the Moustache and Nico as we rode slowly past their restaurant, some members may remember them from Sihanoukville. I had spent a few evenings in their place being that no authorities were sat there too, good food they have, and excellent samosa for snacking with a cool beer or two, in fact they were so good I ordered a second portion, and only $2 per dish. Moustache & Nico are excellent hosts, always good food and service, and always with a smile, the bar LPow Restaurant Bar, well worth a visit if anyone is in the area at some time.
The Samosa Chicken Masala of the Moustache, I am sure is prepared and cooked with taste in mind, with a good wholesome filling without the spicy heat of the likes of an Indian portion, but that is no disappointment by any means, due to the chef's wonderful balance of flavour, encased in a delicate pastry that eases away with the inside filling with each and every bite. I would say that these are one of, if not the very best Samosa I have ever tasted, the fusion of flavour with each and every mouthful is an honest delight, that just had me wanting more. Thinking about it the few hours bus journey from Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham is worth the visit to eat those amazing Samosa, my mouth waters, writing this and reminiscing of their taste. I could be due a visit soon.
Riding alongside the market I could not get out of my head, how badly the food sellers had treated Nak the other night. I was sat on the bike has usual when we pull up for a little food from the barbeque stalls, where she would buy fish and so on, but not on this night! Nak asked and pointed out what she would like, next she was heading back towards me, the food sellers throwing rice at her and shouting “Da Barang”, it was a little unpleasant to say the least. I would not have minded too much, if we were strangers, but these sellers knew us, with living in the town for a substantial time to know of the people lived around us, and also Nak being raised in Kampong Cham, it was her home town being somewhere she always felt that of anywhere, being home, a belonging. It did make us initially wonder about carrying on with the journey or rather I should say “myself”, due to Nak being of a blank expression, displaced, obviously shocked, she mulling over how her own people were reacting, and that the word being now amongst most, was that westerners were the source of Covid19, and carriers of the virus, this was different from when the premier extended his hand in friendship, meeting the foreigners, disembarking the cruise ship that he allowed to be docked in Sihanoukville. How and what made this change and shift to find blame, in some ways the feeling, I sensed was like that of a witch hunt, I can’t help thinking the media being pro-China, softening the fact that the virus origin was that of China. But now the long-term investor of the country’s progressions and its growing partnership.
Maybe best turn the trip in for a later date when all, or if things settled down. I was wondering if the virus was on the move, and would we find more with the illness has we went. Nak would more than likely be thinking on different lines of would it be safe, that too had crossed my mind, or was it only here the problem lay, we would figure it out has we pressed on with the journey, out of town then right turn onto road 71.
On the map it says 2 hours 10 minutes, working that out it’s an average or constant speed over the distance of 110km, that is a speed of just a fraction over 52 kilometres per hour, for me on these roads that is an impossibility. First of all, I don’t want to die nor pay a hospital bill or any monies too another party. The roads are not in the best of condition and when they are in better condition the other road users drive and ride like they’re on a race track wanting to win the gold cup, problem is like you and I know, it’s more than likely they will end up soon in an accident.
I tend to double the times what the map quotes, you could say playing on the edge of safety, or rather I am never in a rush here to meet my maker. Don’t get me completely wrong, I do like speed like many of us, but in the right conditions.
Back in my own country the roads are as safe has you wish to make them, and riding bikes since I legally could do so, and that is one of the main points, that the law is mostly correct, here I would not say so, any incident you would find yourself in 99% it will be your fault, mainly because you are not Khmer and you are perceived to be the one with money. Insurance would be the best solution, if you hold a Khmer licence for no less than a period of 6 months before expiry and the bike is registered in your own name I understand, but don’t quote me there may be so many variables.
I was partial to 250cc two strokes, Japanese pocket rockets, and not restricted to only my youth. We, that is myself and one or two friends would go up to the Yorkshire dales on the A65 and on to the lake district, always with a keen eye looking for any speed cameras, and mostly the unmarked high-speed police cars laying mostly in wait parked up in roadside laybys. There was a good known bikers’ hangout, and coffee at devil’s bridge, Kerby Lonsdale. This was always a good place to pick out the big boys with their GSXR’s 750cc. Roads vary from wide and straight to narrow and twisty banked with drystone walls, but mostly clear views. The big boys would take the piss mainly out of the two strokes, with comments like is it not time you lads got real bikes. Or we always have to be ahead of you or we’ll choke on the smoke. Okay, where are you all going? “See if you can keep in front of us” the game was on. Yes, the 750s had a fast-top speed of around 160mph, but on these roads you had to be good. or have the bottle to do so. The 250cc was a lot lighter, neither was it slow if kept in the range of its slim power band of 250rpm, “on the boil” some referred too, and keeping the front wheel down exiting corners.
The bike was an 89 hybrid Kawasaki KR1 it was the last model before being replaced by the KR1S. But even so it had the important bits has standard that the new model carried, most importantly the KIPS power valve system. The main difference now with the KR1S new model was the smooth finished Aluminium twin beam frame and the larger front 2 x discs, four piston callipers. Weight was 131kg. It put out 53 bhp with a top speed of 139mph. It was the quickest mass-produced, 250 two-stroke ever (139mph being recorded in a 1990 speed test), being quicker than both Suzuki’s RGV and even Aprilia’s RS to be produced later.
Most reviews at the time did not really put the hybrids and the likes of the special 250 2-strokes coming in the way of grey imports, such likes of the Honda NSR250R – The MC range of bikes had a variety of models, but there not the bikes that are in production for any other country, but mainly that of their own. The whole idea is mostly to show and sell the mass production range, and sell those bikes to the masses.
The Price of the 1990 Kawasaki KR1S was @£5,000
The Suzuki 1990 GSX-R 750 115 hp at 11,000 rpm while weight was down to 193 kg. Could be bought at the time for £5,500.
I just loved the 2 stroke 250cc bikes, I consider myself lucky to have tried one or two being around when they were shipped over, although the KR1 was not a grey import, but got caught up in its last year of production with the development of the KR1S.
That was well over 20 years ago now, and the times of today seem to be moving on too quickly.
Moving on slowly if we can for a time, now at the older age and certainly the more cautious rider on the roads of the Kingdom of Wonder. Why? Because traveling fast would more than likely bring you “wonder” just has quick. Believe me it’s a real danger driving here, we could add it’s the same back in our own countries, but here they have their own rules and regulations, like we have mostly again in that of our own homelands. I suppose I am meaning to say by “laws that have been made by government”. Official with traffic driving rules and regulations, enforced and monitored by traffic police, and also using the term loosely (in both cases) the less official way, being that if you have the monies you probably have the right of way over anyone else, money is usually the key word, we could use the word here “corruption”, the government stress that one of their policies is to stamp out the ways of “bribery and corruption”, again for you and I to see or even understand at what type of level this operates on. Someone is always in line for payment followed by another. We may get annoyed to how business is simply run here, also too be blatantly overcharged on items in shops, or in this case what fine you pay to the traffic police, did you get given an official receipt? Strange thing here, if you got stopped for not wearing a helmet, and you were given a receipt, you can ride without the helmet (legally) until that time of the following day.
Traveling slightly up hill on road 71 there was quite a few trucks on part of the stretch of road, and when the drivers get them up to speed, they don’t seem to let off if they can help it, and if you see the trucks coming toward you, side by side overtaking each other, get off the road, don’t play chicken, these guys would not stop even if they were capable of doing so. Now was about two in the afternoon and not too hot, being nice and pleasant for the ride, but lots of activities around, mostly at the edge of the road, bicycles and people carrying on with daily routines. Lots of scarecrows (Ting mong) to the front of properties. I was asking Nak if they are having a competition for the best made. Winner gets a prize; I did not realize they were made to ward off illness and bad spirits, in this case the virus named Covid19.
Quote from – move to Cambodia -
Cambodia’s coronavirus scarecrows
Ting mong in Khmer, propped up outside people’s houses or gardens. Ting Mong aren’t there to protect the crops from birds, rather, they are there to frighten away ghosts and evil spirits. You often won’t see any ting mong for months at a time in Cambodia, but in times of difficulty they start to multiply. Now, during the coronavirus pandemic, ting mong are everywhere.
https://www.movetocambodia.com/art-cult ... carecrows/
Time to stop and find a tree to have a piss, and a cigarette and drink, the cloud has covered well now. Nak was eying up the mango, but people also had eyes on us. We still had that of an uncomfortable feeling, normally people would approach, inquisitively maybe exchange a word or two, but now avoidance was the order, strange feeling, not that of Cambodia.
By the next stop, the light around us, was now was to be drawing in, with the daylight fading and the sun to dip beyond the distant horizon, the darkness of the night was soon to accompany us for the final part of the ride. We would come across two police road blocks, both would be directing trucks to the roadside, we were waved on through, at both checkpoints.
Just outside the town we picked up a few supplies from a roadside stall, before pressing on to the Seng Chheng Horn Guest House just beyond the bridge at Kompong Thom. I intended to book into the accommodation for the night, and what I had read with the feedback of reviews, and they cater for westerners, it seems to be the place to try for a room.
We pulled up in the car park outside the lobby, Nak got of the bike while the security guard was showing me were to place the bike, I removed my helmet, and there was a lot of fuss going on at reception, Nak said to me, she overheard to conversation of the people who have booked in with the family, that they would cancel if they allowed me and her to stay. Out came the reception guy, telling us they are full and have no rooms vacant.
We got on the bike knowing the receptionist had no choice to do what he did, there was plenty of Khmer in the lobby, if he let us book in, he could have lost many guests, or at least had a headache over the fuss. Looking at the face of my partner at the moment, solemn, uneasy, worried, even that of blankness, or was she too thinking like many that it is fault of the westerner? She up to now had been rejected by her own kind, that of food in her own city, and now, also refused a safe place of rest for one night.
Now! There is something to be very concerned about, word is out and people are worried about the virus and that of western people. I rode back over the bridge in the opposite direction back into town where we may have more choice of a bed for the night, Nak said to me she was hungry and to stop at the roadside stall on the right, without getting off the bike she started to speak of what she wanted, the seller interrupted, she pulled me on the shoulder and said go! The stallholder would not sell to her. We rode around the small streets there looking in hope for some guesthouse that may give us a bed for the night. We came across a very lively restaurant with accommodation on the opposite side of the narrow street, riding into the courtyard of the Vimean Hang guesthouse, a young guy got up from his seat and walked toward us, I gather he was security, another guy, the receptionist arouse from the hammock at the side of the courtyards small check-in building he spoke Khmer, I said to Nak what did he say, she replied “you want a room”. I booked us in for two nights, due to give us more time to see how the land lay. Nak asked about the food across the road, to be told they only served drinks. It was no problem the security would go for food. The room was large and very modern, clean, aircon and hot water LCD TV WIFI and fridge, $12 per night was a very good price, food arrived, beef and mushrooms, chicken and green peppers of course with plenty of rice, also small bags of spicy chilly, and my favoured dark soy. The smiles had soon returned, helped along with a good feed, everything was good for the moment, turning on the TV on most Cambodian channels there was updates of Corvid 19 and the situation. The Government had given a number out live to all whom had business, the likes of hotels, guesthouse and restaurants, stating if they wanted to refuse foreigners they could do so, and if they came across any dispute, they could call the number and police would arrive to sort out any problems. This was a tad serious and disappointing in my own view, the blame was clearly aimed at visiting foreigners. But I was no visitor, but that of an expat among many others living here, now the moods and fears have been placed firmly in the mindset of many Khmer, that I can understand, and also the actions of the authorities, but only too that by some extent, but I do think that at least more thought should have been taken towards the situation of the expats living in their country, the actual time and actions seem so confusing when He was greeting passengers from the cruise ship, here telling the western passengers to remove their masks, he was not wearing one, and he was not afraid, and neither should the people. This outlook changed rapidly, but not altogether in practice, you mainly just have to leave the inner capital cities streets, where I live in the suburbs nothing has changed in the daily lives of the Khmer, only the unmasked telling and hoping the westerner wears a mask, because it is those who are bringing it into the country. When I read the news of the low numbers in the country that have the virus, mostly it will say that of (Import), I would have thought likely so. Cambodia has had very low numbers, that of people who have actually had the Corvid 19 virus and up to date all people stricken with the illness have been treated, also there are no cases of illness related deaths. How the country has had low numbers when both neighbours have suffered higher casualties, is shadowed by speculation, such as climate, or the Khmer would wish you to believe that of their good health service, let’s hope it never gets too a stage to test the skills of the medical staff and facilities.
We both had a goodnights sleep, awoken by the cleaners knocking the door, she bought clean towels, bottle water and toothbrushes, asking if we wanted food, has she would go for it if we wished, the general staff at the guest house were that of very helpful, and seeing the situation of the virus and how it affects most of us, sometimes for us also in a bit of an awkward way. We lazed around for most of the day, making good use of the aircon, and me keeping a keen eye on the news channels of any change in the situation.
We ventured out in the evening, stumbling upon a Khmer restaurant, more so to the liking of Naks taste, was better to see the smile on her face at this unfortunate time. Before entering we cleaned our hands being offered a bowl of water from the masked staff, and then a bottle of alcohol to rub the liquid into our hands.
Fish and beef were on the order, I did a little but enough, anymore I am afraid I could not stomach, but drunk a few more bottles of beer than I normally would. These places tend to be expensive for my taste, it makes me wonder how the Khmer manage the price, with them always saying how little they have. Don’t judge me wrong over my words, due to I have seen the very poor in the country, been in places where they may live, and of their daily eating hand to mouth and seemingly only just getting by. But I don’t think this is the majority on the whole has made to believe. I know country people who you would think poor, but are far from being so. I am tending to think being in this country for a good length of time its more doing nowadays of western charities and our governments keeping relationship with countries, of course the recipients will show their palm if you’re willing to give.
The Khmer I know of living in the suburbs of the big city, would not think twice of paying in excess of $20 per night going out for food, and also beer is cheap, how many times do you see the locals sitting outside where they live, enjoying good meals and plenty of beers. The thing is, the apartment building I live is a building with 6 apartments per floor. 3 floors so 18 in all (all Khmer). It’s very rare for anyone to go out to work, apart from the guy on the second floor whom drives, his own car (chauffeur) for a few hours per day, another one being a teacher, out of work due to schools not open. But the landlady’s brother is a pass app, tuk-tuk driver, and doubles has night time security at the apartments sleeping in the moto storage room, for use of the residents of the upper floors, no others go to work I have noticed in the time being there, over one year. All I can think of they have property they rent to make the income. There also seems a lot of property rental going on in the area, but not like you would think, most own a building and rent that out, and they go and rent from another, like a friend who has a phone shop on road 1. 3 doors up his that of his own shop and house. Nak asked me the other day if I wanted to rent the shophouse on the corner near to where we live, that is now their new house is built, “no joke” it is nearly as big as the apartment block of 18 where we live, but a little taller than any other buildings around its area, so from there penthouse on the top floor and that of the patio tiled flat roof above, they have uninterrupted views of the area. And that was my reply too Nak “too big”. Nak replied back “rent $200 per month”! Bargain there for someone, that’s for sure, but today, not for me due to its large size.
There the new orange house stands alongside of the old house.
Who are the people whom can afford to live in the many cities Borey, are they that we would call of middle class, near where I live the borey now hold residents of in excess of 2000 families and is growing larger each day, that is just one of the many new borey projects around the capital and that of its suburbs? With lowest price accommodation averaging around $120,000 for a small sized family home, to the prices of $millions for the many larger houses and villas, many of this type, of modern new housing developments have good securities, and also gated communities. The question is why? Do the new buyers, buy so, because of the security measures in place, for we all feel that little safer when someone is professionally hired to take care of the new assets one may have invested into. I personally see this too in a different light, being that the divide is growing between the classes, them who have, and them who don’t scenario.
Even having the simple car could cost the same has that of a house in my country, and some houses have four cars parked outside on the borey, being that of now the normal choice of Range Rover, but the so called better off will have Bentley and Rollers, even the new high-class sport cars are slowly emerging in the country.
I was once invited to a Khmer person’s home on the borey, it was in the gated areas, two-bedroom house, three bathrooms, living room, kitchen and breakfast bar, yard to the front to park. I thought not a bad size but small in comparison to other properties in the area, but this one only came in at $1.4 million. I have been told recently that the owner had over exaggerated the price, but I am not too sure that he had. I recently saw a villa for rental at $2500 per month, I ask who has that kind of money for rental property, on an ongoing monthly agreement.
A remarkable developing country may I add, where many are commenting on the very poor country with so many very wealthy people of today. What seems more remarkable is many countries government’s and charities are still donating Aid, But, then again if someone is willing to give, most are also willing to take or at least except that of the offering, it is the offering of help and support, given in kindness, towards that of the needy, of ones causes and that of their needs. This way too, the better off people don’t have to do it for themselves, by feeling that it is their sole responsibility, if that was the case, the fellow countryman would be dipping deep into their own pockets. We all have our own views on the situation, and it’s easy to judge, we can also say the same thing, but in some ways, it goes on in our own countries too. The need may too have eased over a number of years, like you would expect from a now developing country, also with its ongoing shift toward the new big investors of China. Some we could say have grown very wealthy from the situation, others may have, or are falling foul too, but I see this because of shifts of policy and agreements, such as the new law on online gambling, when the law was made, online gambling became illegal many thousands of Chinese nationals returned home, leaving on this scale left undoubtedly many Khmer whom relied on their customer too be hit hard, some no doubt being left with new and ongoing business and personal debts. It makes me wonder if the Khmer actions were a little quick, growth in business or greed of monies most had never seen before on this type of scale. The building boom and that of the shift was quickly put into action, monies changed everything overnight, it saw the new investors moving in, offering and paying up to three times for property, it was only time to witness a modern mass exodus of western residents moving away from their business now closed and being torn down to make way for new proposed construction, or simply the new investors moving into the once little idyllic fishing village that came known has one of the westerners’ beach backpackers/soap-dodger’s trip destinations, grows to the sprawling gambling, casino Meccas of the new investors Cambodia. (ongoing development).
We also visited the Love Cafe & Pizza for western food, a good plate of pasta was in order for my liking, the American owner was very concerned and said at this rate of the pandemic she would be lucky to last another month in business, it seems she is still operating since I viewed on Google Maps, others not so lucky, the likes of The Stop cafe/rest stop I hear from a member on this forum who lives in the area. It would be reasonable to say that they would have lost most of the customer from being on the route of tour buses going to and back from the temples of Angkor. That being the case of social distancing, lockdown and then borders closing, that would affect many in business, hitting so many in the tourist sectors, then having a knock-on effect to others, most would be caught up in this no matter what they were to be trading.
So far Cambodia have managed Corvid 19 with some ease, considering that of a global pandemic, they have had very few people with the virus compared to the misfortune of many other countries. Even their neighbours of Thailand and Vietnam have fared worse in aspects of some areas.
We, still were in no hurry to move on, hoping that things would settle or even pass by, and I fancied visiting an area while we were here. So, I booked for the following two nights in advance on returning from the restaurant on our stay of the second paid night, I always pay in advance when staying at hotels.
The following morning was when the unforeseen and unnecessary trouble started for us, arriving down at the reception area where the bike was parked, due to the planning we would now be on our way out visiting, for the remainder of the day. I was approached by a middle-aged lady that I have never seen before, she demanded payment of $46 for our up-to-date stay, she did this in what you could call an unnecessary very aggressive manor, she would not let me near the bike. I explained to her I had already paid and also in advance for tonight and tomorrows stay. It turned out she was the owner’s sister; she was that aggressive in her nature she had Nak hiding behind me. I told her to ask the person who is normally on reception, she tried calling on her mobile, but no reply, so she handed the number via the cleaner to Nak and then to me, she now wanted me to call him while she would call the police, to come so I wouldn’t cheat her and abscond without payment. I tried to calm the situation and her increasing aggravations toward us. But, “Are You Fucking Crazy” I was to ask not very calmly from myself. I called the number, he answered and I tried to pass my phone to her, that was not going to happen, due to her saying I had the virus and should not be here, the reception called on her phone, passing it on to the lady, she waved her hand in gesture for us to go, that too without any type or effort of apologies, I was just glad the police did not arrive, it could have turned out a lot more complicated. It turned out (that, after the reception guy told us that evening, this was not the first time) she apparently keeps on meddling in her brother’s business affairs.
The place I was wanting to visit was that of Phnom Santuk, being that of a cultural and natural site located in Ko Koh village, Ko Koh commune, Santuk district, about 17 kilometres south of Kampong Thom provincial town.
https://www.tourismcambodia.com/travelg ... untain.htm
You would not miss the area along the main highway where Phnom Santuk was located, due to roadside restaurants and the statues adorning the roadside, for all that stand here are for sale, the only other place I have seen this is on the main highway approaching Seim Reap.
This Buddha I found to have an unusual but interesting grain to the stone
We called at one of the roadside restaurants, before our plan of going to the temple and its hilltop viewpoint, better to have some food inside us, just in case there is nothing more to be had, the restaurants in this area I would think possibly cater for the long tour buses on the way to and from Angkor, that being they are large to take the capacity and cater for large groups of people. Today was not a day like that, and how long would it be when the days of the past became the same once more.
There was only a party of five people sat around one table eating when we pulled into the carpark. Nak said don’t leave the bike there, because the bus will come and want to park. Answering her “No, they won’t because there are no buses today”. I was hoping there would be WIFI , I was trying to catch the waitresses attention, being that there was a group of seven of them, in this huge seating area, that I imagen was so empty to the usual days before, but they all seemed to be too busy on their phones, I asked when one of them who brought our food, but there was no Wi-Fi, being a little disappointing for a place like this, never mind it was time for dinner, rice and some kind of chicken soup and a dish of vegetables, bottled drinking water and the usual complementary refreshing tea on the tabletop.
I wanted to look up on the Wi-Fi due to my internet being on and off due to the signal in the area. I recall beforehand when looking there was supposed to be a restaurant on one of the dirt approach roads just lower down from this place, but on taking the road after we had finished eating, I could not find where the map said it should have been. There was quite a good write-up too, that’s what brought me too this road in the first place, being lower down then the more used road to the hill-top temple.
On the approach to the hilltop temple, I was you could say “I was stopped in my tracks”. It was the dusty approach road, littered on both sides with large lumps of stone. “Wow”, Stone carvers, something more of interest to myself. I could not have imagined, this, and its large scale of its operations, what a trade and art form to stumble on. I just could not believe my luck, this had always been an interest to me, now we just had to look and hope we would be okay, we had on our masks, also, so did all the other people, due to the dusty environment and also the nature of their work.
The dirt road was dry and soft, so it tended to be a little, shall we call slippery in places, more so when the dirt become soft and deep where the large HGVs had turned up the soil with the weight of their loads, there is certainly many lumps of rock around. Most rock was that of a limestone, that is quarried in the area of Preah Vihear.
There were a few large HGV’s delivering huge blocks of stone, it would only be a wild guess on the stone weight, so I may not be exactly accurate, but I wonder what 5m x 4m x 4m block of limestone would weigh? I would hazard a guess then on approx. 2.3 Tonnes per cubic metre. So, the overall block would be a measurement of 80m3 cubic metre, so the weight would be approx. 184 Tonnes overall. Wherever that stone was placed, it would stay in situ until the carvers had finished their work and it was then collected. Cranes hosting the new carved statue on the trailers of HGVs too be delivered to their new homes, that would be one of the 1080 estimated temples of Cambodia.
Part Four – Leaving Kampong Cham to Where?
Where was the question, our aim was the temples of Angkor, that journey is some distance away for now?
The day came when my friend the hotel owner and his family wanted to close up shop, his other guests were leaving today and he had been kindly asking us each day when we were thinking of going, they did not rush us away, we spent some time with them in the morning has they planned to close around mid-day. He seemed under pressure at the time of our stay, but that was in the evening time mostly when police would be sat at the restaurant, and for him and his young family obviously didn’t need any unpleasantries for them or guests. Being fair most of his customers are that of western tourists, and now there was very few of them around, and other places were closing too, but more so in this area due the tourist boat passengers in quarantine just round the corner.
I packed up the bike ready for our onward journey at noon, and that time soon came, so it was time to say goodbye once more to our hosts and their staff wishing them all well, has they said the same to us too, we have always got on and enjoyed our stays there, one of the staff helped us find our accommodation in town a few years ago.
We slowly road up the street towards the market, time to wave to the Moustache and Nico as we rode slowly past their restaurant, some members may remember them from Sihanoukville. I had spent a few evenings in their place being that no authorities were sat there too, good food they have, and excellent samosa for snacking with a cool beer or two, in fact they were so good I ordered a second portion, and only $2 per dish. Moustache & Nico are excellent hosts, always good food and service, and always with a smile, the bar LPow Restaurant Bar, well worth a visit if anyone is in the area at some time.
The Samosa Chicken Masala of the Moustache, I am sure is prepared and cooked with taste in mind, with a good wholesome filling without the spicy heat of the likes of an Indian portion, but that is no disappointment by any means, due to the chef's wonderful balance of flavour, encased in a delicate pastry that eases away with the inside filling with each and every bite. I would say that these are one of, if not the very best Samosa I have ever tasted, the fusion of flavour with each and every mouthful is an honest delight, that just had me wanting more. Thinking about it the few hours bus journey from Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham is worth the visit to eat those amazing Samosa, my mouth waters, writing this and reminiscing of their taste. I could be due a visit soon.
Riding alongside the market I could not get out of my head, how badly the food sellers had treated Nak the other night. I was sat on the bike has usual when we pull up for a little food from the barbeque stalls, where she would buy fish and so on, but not on this night! Nak asked and pointed out what she would like, next she was heading back towards me, the food sellers throwing rice at her and shouting “Da Barang”, it was a little unpleasant to say the least. I would not have minded too much, if we were strangers, but these sellers knew us, with living in the town for a substantial time to know of the people lived around us, and also Nak being raised in Kampong Cham, it was her home town being somewhere she always felt that of anywhere, being home, a belonging. It did make us initially wonder about carrying on with the journey or rather I should say “myself”, due to Nak being of a blank expression, displaced, obviously shocked, she mulling over how her own people were reacting, and that the word being now amongst most, was that westerners were the source of Covid19, and carriers of the virus, this was different from when the premier extended his hand in friendship, meeting the foreigners, disembarking the cruise ship that he allowed to be docked in Sihanoukville. How and what made this change and shift to find blame, in some ways the feeling, I sensed was like that of a witch hunt, I can’t help thinking the media being pro-China, softening the fact that the virus origin was that of China. But now the long-term investor of the country’s progressions and its growing partnership.
Maybe best turn the trip in for a later date when all, or if things settled down. I was wondering if the virus was on the move, and would we find more with the illness has we went. Nak would more than likely be thinking on different lines of would it be safe, that too had crossed my mind, or was it only here the problem lay, we would figure it out has we pressed on with the journey, out of town then right turn onto road 71.
On the map it says 2 hours 10 minutes, working that out it’s an average or constant speed over the distance of 110km, that is a speed of just a fraction over 52 kilometres per hour, for me on these roads that is an impossibility. First of all, I don’t want to die nor pay a hospital bill or any monies too another party. The roads are not in the best of condition and when they are in better condition the other road users drive and ride like they’re on a race track wanting to win the gold cup, problem is like you and I know, it’s more than likely they will end up soon in an accident.
I tend to double the times what the map quotes, you could say playing on the edge of safety, or rather I am never in a rush here to meet my maker. Don’t get me completely wrong, I do like speed like many of us, but in the right conditions.
Back in my own country the roads are as safe has you wish to make them, and riding bikes since I legally could do so, and that is one of the main points, that the law is mostly correct, here I would not say so, any incident you would find yourself in 99% it will be your fault, mainly because you are not Khmer and you are perceived to be the one with money. Insurance would be the best solution, if you hold a Khmer licence for no less than a period of 6 months before expiry and the bike is registered in your own name I understand, but don’t quote me there may be so many variables.
I was partial to 250cc two strokes, Japanese pocket rockets, and not restricted to only my youth. We, that is myself and one or two friends would go up to the Yorkshire dales on the A65 and on to the lake district, always with a keen eye looking for any speed cameras, and mostly the unmarked high-speed police cars laying mostly in wait parked up in roadside laybys. There was a good known bikers’ hangout, and coffee at devil’s bridge, Kerby Lonsdale. This was always a good place to pick out the big boys with their GSXR’s 750cc. Roads vary from wide and straight to narrow and twisty banked with drystone walls, but mostly clear views. The big boys would take the piss mainly out of the two strokes, with comments like is it not time you lads got real bikes. Or we always have to be ahead of you or we’ll choke on the smoke. Okay, where are you all going? “See if you can keep in front of us” the game was on. Yes, the 750s had a fast-top speed of around 160mph, but on these roads you had to be good. or have the bottle to do so. The 250cc was a lot lighter, neither was it slow if kept in the range of its slim power band of 250rpm, “on the boil” some referred too, and keeping the front wheel down exiting corners.
The bike was an 89 hybrid Kawasaki KR1 it was the last model before being replaced by the KR1S. But even so it had the important bits has standard that the new model carried, most importantly the KIPS power valve system. The main difference now with the KR1S new model was the smooth finished Aluminium twin beam frame and the larger front 2 x discs, four piston callipers. Weight was 131kg. It put out 53 bhp with a top speed of 139mph. It was the quickest mass-produced, 250 two-stroke ever (139mph being recorded in a 1990 speed test), being quicker than both Suzuki’s RGV and even Aprilia’s RS to be produced later.
Most reviews at the time did not really put the hybrids and the likes of the special 250 2-strokes coming in the way of grey imports, such likes of the Honda NSR250R – The MC range of bikes had a variety of models, but there not the bikes that are in production for any other country, but mainly that of their own. The whole idea is mostly to show and sell the mass production range, and sell those bikes to the masses.
The Price of the 1990 Kawasaki KR1S was @£5,000
The Suzuki 1990 GSX-R 750 115 hp at 11,000 rpm while weight was down to 193 kg. Could be bought at the time for £5,500.
I just loved the 2 stroke 250cc bikes, I consider myself lucky to have tried one or two being around when they were shipped over, although the KR1 was not a grey import, but got caught up in its last year of production with the development of the KR1S.
That was well over 20 years ago now, and the times of today seem to be moving on too quickly.
Moving on slowly if we can for a time, now at the older age and certainly the more cautious rider on the roads of the Kingdom of Wonder. Why? Because traveling fast would more than likely bring you “wonder” just has quick. Believe me it’s a real danger driving here, we could add it’s the same back in our own countries, but here they have their own rules and regulations, like we have mostly again in that of our own homelands. I suppose I am meaning to say by “laws that have been made by government”. Official with traffic driving rules and regulations, enforced and monitored by traffic police, and also using the term loosely (in both cases) the less official way, being that if you have the monies you probably have the right of way over anyone else, money is usually the key word, we could use the word here “corruption”, the government stress that one of their policies is to stamp out the ways of “bribery and corruption”, again for you and I to see or even understand at what type of level this operates on. Someone is always in line for payment followed by another. We may get annoyed to how business is simply run here, also too be blatantly overcharged on items in shops, or in this case what fine you pay to the traffic police, did you get given an official receipt? Strange thing here, if you got stopped for not wearing a helmet, and you were given a receipt, you can ride without the helmet (legally) until that time of the following day.
Traveling slightly up hill on road 71 there was quite a few trucks on part of the stretch of road, and when the drivers get them up to speed, they don’t seem to let off if they can help it, and if you see the trucks coming toward you, side by side overtaking each other, get off the road, don’t play chicken, these guys would not stop even if they were capable of doing so. Now was about two in the afternoon and not too hot, being nice and pleasant for the ride, but lots of activities around, mostly at the edge of the road, bicycles and people carrying on with daily routines. Lots of scarecrows (Ting mong) to the front of properties. I was asking Nak if they are having a competition for the best made. Winner gets a prize; I did not realize they were made to ward off illness and bad spirits, in this case the virus named Covid19.
Quote from – move to Cambodia -
Cambodia’s coronavirus scarecrows
Ting mong in Khmer, propped up outside people’s houses or gardens. Ting Mong aren’t there to protect the crops from birds, rather, they are there to frighten away ghosts and evil spirits. You often won’t see any ting mong for months at a time in Cambodia, but in times of difficulty they start to multiply. Now, during the coronavirus pandemic, ting mong are everywhere.
https://www.movetocambodia.com/art-cult ... carecrows/
Time to stop and find a tree to have a piss, and a cigarette and drink, the cloud has covered well now. Nak was eying up the mango, but people also had eyes on us. We still had that of an uncomfortable feeling, normally people would approach, inquisitively maybe exchange a word or two, but now avoidance was the order, strange feeling, not that of Cambodia.
By the next stop, the light around us, was now was to be drawing in, with the daylight fading and the sun to dip beyond the distant horizon, the darkness of the night was soon to accompany us for the final part of the ride. We would come across two police road blocks, both would be directing trucks to the roadside, we were waved on through, at both checkpoints.
Just outside the town we picked up a few supplies from a roadside stall, before pressing on to the Seng Chheng Horn Guest House just beyond the bridge at Kompong Thom. I intended to book into the accommodation for the night, and what I had read with the feedback of reviews, and they cater for westerners, it seems to be the place to try for a room.
We pulled up in the car park outside the lobby, Nak got of the bike while the security guard was showing me were to place the bike, I removed my helmet, and there was a lot of fuss going on at reception, Nak said to me, she overheard to conversation of the people who have booked in with the family, that they would cancel if they allowed me and her to stay. Out came the reception guy, telling us they are full and have no rooms vacant.
We got on the bike knowing the receptionist had no choice to do what he did, there was plenty of Khmer in the lobby, if he let us book in, he could have lost many guests, or at least had a headache over the fuss. Looking at the face of my partner at the moment, solemn, uneasy, worried, even that of blankness, or was she too thinking like many that it is fault of the westerner? She up to now had been rejected by her own kind, that of food in her own city, and now, also refused a safe place of rest for one night.
Now! There is something to be very concerned about, word is out and people are worried about the virus and that of western people. I rode back over the bridge in the opposite direction back into town where we may have more choice of a bed for the night, Nak said to me she was hungry and to stop at the roadside stall on the right, without getting off the bike she started to speak of what she wanted, the seller interrupted, she pulled me on the shoulder and said go! The stallholder would not sell to her. We rode around the small streets there looking in hope for some guesthouse that may give us a bed for the night. We came across a very lively restaurant with accommodation on the opposite side of the narrow street, riding into the courtyard of the Vimean Hang guesthouse, a young guy got up from his seat and walked toward us, I gather he was security, another guy, the receptionist arouse from the hammock at the side of the courtyards small check-in building he spoke Khmer, I said to Nak what did he say, she replied “you want a room”. I booked us in for two nights, due to give us more time to see how the land lay. Nak asked about the food across the road, to be told they only served drinks. It was no problem the security would go for food. The room was large and very modern, clean, aircon and hot water LCD TV WIFI and fridge, $12 per night was a very good price, food arrived, beef and mushrooms, chicken and green peppers of course with plenty of rice, also small bags of spicy chilly, and my favoured dark soy. The smiles had soon returned, helped along with a good feed, everything was good for the moment, turning on the TV on most Cambodian channels there was updates of Corvid 19 and the situation. The Government had given a number out live to all whom had business, the likes of hotels, guesthouse and restaurants, stating if they wanted to refuse foreigners they could do so, and if they came across any dispute, they could call the number and police would arrive to sort out any problems. This was a tad serious and disappointing in my own view, the blame was clearly aimed at visiting foreigners. But I was no visitor, but that of an expat among many others living here, now the moods and fears have been placed firmly in the mindset of many Khmer, that I can understand, and also the actions of the authorities, but only too that by some extent, but I do think that at least more thought should have been taken towards the situation of the expats living in their country, the actual time and actions seem so confusing when He was greeting passengers from the cruise ship, here telling the western passengers to remove their masks, he was not wearing one, and he was not afraid, and neither should the people. This outlook changed rapidly, but not altogether in practice, you mainly just have to leave the inner capital cities streets, where I live in the suburbs nothing has changed in the daily lives of the Khmer, only the unmasked telling and hoping the westerner wears a mask, because it is those who are bringing it into the country. When I read the news of the low numbers in the country that have the virus, mostly it will say that of (Import), I would have thought likely so. Cambodia has had very low numbers, that of people who have actually had the Corvid 19 virus and up to date all people stricken with the illness have been treated, also there are no cases of illness related deaths. How the country has had low numbers when both neighbours have suffered higher casualties, is shadowed by speculation, such as climate, or the Khmer would wish you to believe that of their good health service, let’s hope it never gets too a stage to test the skills of the medical staff and facilities.
We both had a goodnights sleep, awoken by the cleaners knocking the door, she bought clean towels, bottle water and toothbrushes, asking if we wanted food, has she would go for it if we wished, the general staff at the guest house were that of very helpful, and seeing the situation of the virus and how it affects most of us, sometimes for us also in a bit of an awkward way. We lazed around for most of the day, making good use of the aircon, and me keeping a keen eye on the news channels of any change in the situation.
We ventured out in the evening, stumbling upon a Khmer restaurant, more so to the liking of Naks taste, was better to see the smile on her face at this unfortunate time. Before entering we cleaned our hands being offered a bowl of water from the masked staff, and then a bottle of alcohol to rub the liquid into our hands.
Fish and beef were on the order, I did a little but enough, anymore I am afraid I could not stomach, but drunk a few more bottles of beer than I normally would. These places tend to be expensive for my taste, it makes me wonder how the Khmer manage the price, with them always saying how little they have. Don’t judge me wrong over my words, due to I have seen the very poor in the country, been in places where they may live, and of their daily eating hand to mouth and seemingly only just getting by. But I don’t think this is the majority on the whole has made to believe. I know country people who you would think poor, but are far from being so. I am tending to think being in this country for a good length of time its more doing nowadays of western charities and our governments keeping relationship with countries, of course the recipients will show their palm if you’re willing to give.
The Khmer I know of living in the suburbs of the big city, would not think twice of paying in excess of $20 per night going out for food, and also beer is cheap, how many times do you see the locals sitting outside where they live, enjoying good meals and plenty of beers. The thing is, the apartment building I live is a building with 6 apartments per floor. 3 floors so 18 in all (all Khmer). It’s very rare for anyone to go out to work, apart from the guy on the second floor whom drives, his own car (chauffeur) for a few hours per day, another one being a teacher, out of work due to schools not open. But the landlady’s brother is a pass app, tuk-tuk driver, and doubles has night time security at the apartments sleeping in the moto storage room, for use of the residents of the upper floors, no others go to work I have noticed in the time being there, over one year. All I can think of they have property they rent to make the income. There also seems a lot of property rental going on in the area, but not like you would think, most own a building and rent that out, and they go and rent from another, like a friend who has a phone shop on road 1. 3 doors up his that of his own shop and house. Nak asked me the other day if I wanted to rent the shophouse on the corner near to where we live, that is now their new house is built, “no joke” it is nearly as big as the apartment block of 18 where we live, but a little taller than any other buildings around its area, so from there penthouse on the top floor and that of the patio tiled flat roof above, they have uninterrupted views of the area. And that was my reply too Nak “too big”. Nak replied back “rent $200 per month”! Bargain there for someone, that’s for sure, but today, not for me due to its large size.
There the new orange house stands alongside of the old house.
Who are the people whom can afford to live in the many cities Borey, are they that we would call of middle class, near where I live the borey now hold residents of in excess of 2000 families and is growing larger each day, that is just one of the many new borey projects around the capital and that of its suburbs? With lowest price accommodation averaging around $120,000 for a small sized family home, to the prices of $millions for the many larger houses and villas, many of this type, of modern new housing developments have good securities, and also gated communities. The question is why? Do the new buyers, buy so, because of the security measures in place, for we all feel that little safer when someone is professionally hired to take care of the new assets one may have invested into. I personally see this too in a different light, being that the divide is growing between the classes, them who have, and them who don’t scenario.
Even having the simple car could cost the same has that of a house in my country, and some houses have four cars parked outside on the borey, being that of now the normal choice of Range Rover, but the so called better off will have Bentley and Rollers, even the new high-class sport cars are slowly emerging in the country.
I was once invited to a Khmer person’s home on the borey, it was in the gated areas, two-bedroom house, three bathrooms, living room, kitchen and breakfast bar, yard to the front to park. I thought not a bad size but small in comparison to other properties in the area, but this one only came in at $1.4 million. I have been told recently that the owner had over exaggerated the price, but I am not too sure that he had. I recently saw a villa for rental at $2500 per month, I ask who has that kind of money for rental property, on an ongoing monthly agreement.
A remarkable developing country may I add, where many are commenting on the very poor country with so many very wealthy people of today. What seems more remarkable is many countries government’s and charities are still donating Aid, But, then again if someone is willing to give, most are also willing to take or at least except that of the offering, it is the offering of help and support, given in kindness, towards that of the needy, of ones causes and that of their needs. This way too, the better off people don’t have to do it for themselves, by feeling that it is their sole responsibility, if that was the case, the fellow countryman would be dipping deep into their own pockets. We all have our own views on the situation, and it’s easy to judge, we can also say the same thing, but in some ways, it goes on in our own countries too. The need may too have eased over a number of years, like you would expect from a now developing country, also with its ongoing shift toward the new big investors of China. Some we could say have grown very wealthy from the situation, others may have, or are falling foul too, but I see this because of shifts of policy and agreements, such as the new law on online gambling, when the law was made, online gambling became illegal many thousands of Chinese nationals returned home, leaving on this scale left undoubtedly many Khmer whom relied on their customer too be hit hard, some no doubt being left with new and ongoing business and personal debts. It makes me wonder if the Khmer actions were a little quick, growth in business or greed of monies most had never seen before on this type of scale. The building boom and that of the shift was quickly put into action, monies changed everything overnight, it saw the new investors moving in, offering and paying up to three times for property, it was only time to witness a modern mass exodus of western residents moving away from their business now closed and being torn down to make way for new proposed construction, or simply the new investors moving into the once little idyllic fishing village that came known has one of the westerners’ beach backpackers/soap-dodger’s trip destinations, grows to the sprawling gambling, casino Meccas of the new investors Cambodia. (ongoing development).
We also visited the Love Cafe & Pizza for western food, a good plate of pasta was in order for my liking, the American owner was very concerned and said at this rate of the pandemic she would be lucky to last another month in business, it seems she is still operating since I viewed on Google Maps, others not so lucky, the likes of The Stop cafe/rest stop I hear from a member on this forum who lives in the area. It would be reasonable to say that they would have lost most of the customer from being on the route of tour buses going to and back from the temples of Angkor. That being the case of social distancing, lockdown and then borders closing, that would affect many in business, hitting so many in the tourist sectors, then having a knock-on effect to others, most would be caught up in this no matter what they were to be trading.
So far Cambodia have managed Corvid 19 with some ease, considering that of a global pandemic, they have had very few people with the virus compared to the misfortune of many other countries. Even their neighbours of Thailand and Vietnam have fared worse in aspects of some areas.
We, still were in no hurry to move on, hoping that things would settle or even pass by, and I fancied visiting an area while we were here. So, I booked for the following two nights in advance on returning from the restaurant on our stay of the second paid night, I always pay in advance when staying at hotels.
The following morning was when the unforeseen and unnecessary trouble started for us, arriving down at the reception area where the bike was parked, due to the planning we would now be on our way out visiting, for the remainder of the day. I was approached by a middle-aged lady that I have never seen before, she demanded payment of $46 for our up-to-date stay, she did this in what you could call an unnecessary very aggressive manor, she would not let me near the bike. I explained to her I had already paid and also in advance for tonight and tomorrows stay. It turned out she was the owner’s sister; she was that aggressive in her nature she had Nak hiding behind me. I told her to ask the person who is normally on reception, she tried calling on her mobile, but no reply, so she handed the number via the cleaner to Nak and then to me, she now wanted me to call him while she would call the police, to come so I wouldn’t cheat her and abscond without payment. I tried to calm the situation and her increasing aggravations toward us. But, “Are You Fucking Crazy” I was to ask not very calmly from myself. I called the number, he answered and I tried to pass my phone to her, that was not going to happen, due to her saying I had the virus and should not be here, the reception called on her phone, passing it on to the lady, she waved her hand in gesture for us to go, that too without any type or effort of apologies, I was just glad the police did not arrive, it could have turned out a lot more complicated. It turned out (that, after the reception guy told us that evening, this was not the first time) she apparently keeps on meddling in her brother’s business affairs.
The place I was wanting to visit was that of Phnom Santuk, being that of a cultural and natural site located in Ko Koh village, Ko Koh commune, Santuk district, about 17 kilometres south of Kampong Thom provincial town.
https://www.tourismcambodia.com/travelg ... untain.htm
You would not miss the area along the main highway where Phnom Santuk was located, due to roadside restaurants and the statues adorning the roadside, for all that stand here are for sale, the only other place I have seen this is on the main highway approaching Seim Reap.
This Buddha I found to have an unusual but interesting grain to the stone
We called at one of the roadside restaurants, before our plan of going to the temple and its hilltop viewpoint, better to have some food inside us, just in case there is nothing more to be had, the restaurants in this area I would think possibly cater for the long tour buses on the way to and from Angkor, that being they are large to take the capacity and cater for large groups of people. Today was not a day like that, and how long would it be when the days of the past became the same once more.
There was only a party of five people sat around one table eating when we pulled into the carpark. Nak said don’t leave the bike there, because the bus will come and want to park. Answering her “No, they won’t because there are no buses today”. I was hoping there would be WIFI , I was trying to catch the waitresses attention, being that there was a group of seven of them, in this huge seating area, that I imagen was so empty to the usual days before, but they all seemed to be too busy on their phones, I asked when one of them who brought our food, but there was no Wi-Fi, being a little disappointing for a place like this, never mind it was time for dinner, rice and some kind of chicken soup and a dish of vegetables, bottled drinking water and the usual complementary refreshing tea on the tabletop.
I wanted to look up on the Wi-Fi due to my internet being on and off due to the signal in the area. I recall beforehand when looking there was supposed to be a restaurant on one of the dirt approach roads just lower down from this place, but on taking the road after we had finished eating, I could not find where the map said it should have been. There was quite a good write-up too, that’s what brought me too this road in the first place, being lower down then the more used road to the hill-top temple.
On the approach to the hilltop temple, I was you could say “I was stopped in my tracks”. It was the dusty approach road, littered on both sides with large lumps of stone. “Wow”, Stone carvers, something more of interest to myself. I could not have imagined, this, and its large scale of its operations, what a trade and art form to stumble on. I just could not believe my luck, this had always been an interest to me, now we just had to look and hope we would be okay, we had on our masks, also, so did all the other people, due to the dusty environment and also the nature of their work.
The dirt road was dry and soft, so it tended to be a little, shall we call slippery in places, more so when the dirt become soft and deep where the large HGVs had turned up the soil with the weight of their loads, there is certainly many lumps of rock around. Most rock was that of a limestone, that is quarried in the area of Preah Vihear.
There were a few large HGV’s delivering huge blocks of stone, it would only be a wild guess on the stone weight, so I may not be exactly accurate, but I wonder what 5m x 4m x 4m block of limestone would weigh? I would hazard a guess then on approx. 2.3 Tonnes per cubic metre. So, the overall block would be a measurement of 80m3 cubic metre, so the weight would be approx. 184 Tonnes overall. Wherever that stone was placed, it would stay in situ until the carvers had finished their work and it was then collected. Cranes hosting the new carved statue on the trailers of HGVs too be delivered to their new homes, that would be one of the 1080 estimated temples of Cambodia.
Always "hope" but never "expect".
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