I havent been to SR for 8 years and coming back I made the following experiences:

Judging from my own and talking to locals, business owners and expats it seems that at the moment there is only 30% of the visitors they had before Covid. There is loads of accomodation (long and shortterm) for cheap, very nice 4 star rooms go for 20-25$ including pool, even less if you book a week or more. For most of my 10 day stay I was the only guest at my place. Many appartments for rent in the 150-250 $ range available. TukTuk's are desperate for a ride, many nice a restaurant in the usually busy center is empty, even the cafes have no guests. Pub street was 80% tourists before, now its 80% Khmer. So many nice rooftop bars completely empty. The many markets around PS get busy for two hours a day (after dark), near empty during day time as many visitors probably hit the temples. Deserted after 10-11pm.

The average age of a visitor has risen dramatically. You hardely see any young backpackers, most tourists (couples) are well over 50. But I have noted that also in other places I have been to lately.

The best thing are the new roads. No dust anymore, no potholes, its heaven compared to before. Loads of streetlights produce a new atmosfere. A lot less garbage rotting around. Generally much cleaner than before.

When it comes to food the choice is overwhelming, but most restaurants are empty so i doubt the freshness of their ingredients. The ones that are full you wait an eternity to get served. I had very good food at Jungle Burgers (nice NZ bloke and very good lamb burger), il Forno (the only guy still here from my previous visits, great pizza and pasta) and at Urban Tree Hut (very nice atmosfere but sloooooow service). Eric Kayser (bakery) is well worth a visit if you crave for bread & pastries. I would not go back to Sambo (big disappointment), Travancore (indian, cant even make a proper Chai and served me a ginger tea instead insisting it was like that). The local street food offered by Khmer has also improved in terms of cleanliness. Had a few good meals/snacks/drinks along the river just around the corner from the Old Market bridge. The Khmer Grill was a fun evening but the meat served was of questionable quality.

I am not so much a barfly anymore but had a few good nights out at Laundry (new location, cool vibes and pool tables) and Miss Wong (fancy drinks, just next door). Both quite expensive for beeing in Cambodia.

If Cambodia puts up a nuclear power plant - this would be one of the worst case scenarios I can think about and upon completion I would leave the country...

ressl wrote: ↑Wed Jan 17, 2024 8:06 am If Cambodia puts up a nuclear power plant - this would be one of the worst case scenarios I can think about and upon completion I would leave the country...

Why, how old are you? Chances that there would be a meltdown in your lifetime are probably slim.

cabron wrote: ↑Wed Jan 17, 2024 1:08 pm

ressl wrote: ↑Wed Jan 17, 2024 8:06 am If Cambodia puts up a nuclear power plant - this would be one of the worst case scenarios I can think about and upon completion I would leave the country...

They cannot even drive a car.

I can just speak for Siem Reap only for the moment but my experiences were very good so far:

The trip from the airport to downtown at 10pm. Very attentive driver, overtaking only when safe. Always within speed limits. Absolutely no complaints.
all TukTuk Drivers were driving with lots of respect for the traffic, never in danger or even close to it.
even driving around myself on a rented bike I never felt uncomfortable. Wear a helmet at all times and follow the rules. Police will not bother you.

And the best thing: even under intense traffic i rarely heard anyone honking the horn. What a difference to the experiences in India where you can easily go mad under the constant noise.