My trip to Sihanoukville

jaynewcastle · Post by **jaynewcastle** » Fri Apr 08, 2022 12:08 pm

mannanman wrote: ↑Fri Apr 08, 2022 8:59 am
jaynewcastle wrote: ↑Fri Apr 08, 2022 12:32 am The only reason I would actually go to Sihnoukville now, is just to catch the ferry over to the Koh Rong islands, something I would like to do again at some point in the future, though even the islands have seen massive development in the last 10 years too

There is nothing left of Sihanoukville/Otres that would make me want to stay more than a night anymore I'm afraid
I don’t understand this mentality.
If not go to the beach. It’s still there and much cleaner than before. Same sunset, same view, same fresh air.

The beach along to Otres now has a busy 4 lane highway & many tall buildings right behind it, rather than empty fields

The Above us Only Sky bar doesn't overlook the sea anymore, as the same 4 lane highway runs in front of it

If I wanted to look at skyscrapers & neon lights, I would go to Hong Kong or New York, rather than Sihanoukville

Virtually all the western bars, restaurants etc along & behind the beach have gone now

Sorry but the changes don't appeal to me, and thats why I don't go there anymore, same as many other western tourists who no longer go there either

mannanman · Post by **mannanman** » Fri Apr 08, 2022 12:28 pm

jaynewcastle wrote: ↑Fri Apr 08, 2022 12:08 pm
mannanman wrote: ↑Fri Apr 08, 2022 8:59 am
jaynewcastle wrote: ↑Fri Apr 08, 2022 12:32 am The only reason I would actually go to Sihnoukville now, is just to catch the ferry over to the Koh Rong islands, something I would like to do again at some point in the future, though even the islands have seen massive development in the last 10 years too

There is nothing left of Sihanoukville/Otres that would make me want to stay more than a night anymore I'm afraid
I don’t understand this mentality.
If not go to the beach. It’s still there and much cleaner than before. Same sunset, same view, same fresh air.

The beach along to Otres now has a busy 4 lane highway & many tall buildings right behind it, rather than empty fields

The Above us Only Sky bar doesn't overlook the sea anymore, as the same 4 lane highway runs in front of it

If I wanted to look at skyscrapers & neon lights, I would go to Hong Kong or New York, rather than Sihanoukville

Virtually all the western bars, restaurants etc along & behind the beach have gone now

Sorry but the changes don't appeal to me, and thats why I don't go there anymore, same as many other western tourists who no longer go there either

Fair enough.
Above Us was never “on“ the beach but was an enjoyable location for sho.
I only went to Martini and Khin Shack, the latter is still there - same owner same food. All the other western bars were shit including the over rated Titanic and terrible Big Kahuna Bar. (Not talking about the Square or Pub Street)

My point is the beach is still there to enjoy. Yes you can go to
NY or HK but we don’t live there. As a beach to visit it’s all good. Took my kid there for the first time and she loved it.

I know there’s always going to be detractors of SHV but do you know what - there was before the changes. Some people just hate Cambodia. Period.
Many of the people who slag it off now don’t even live in Cambodia or haven’t been to SHV for years. You’ll probably find they’re just generally negative.

There is a chance I might move back down there. There or Kampot. The only thing that annoys me about Kampot is the lack of stuff, and clueless backpackers.

Chad Sexington · Post by **Chad Sexington** » Fri Apr 08, 2022 12:52 pm

mannanman wrote: ↑Fri Apr 08, 2022 12:28 pm
jaynewcastle wrote: ↑Fri Apr 08, 2022 12:08 pm
mannanman wrote: ↑Fri Apr 08, 2022 8:59 am
jaynewcastle wrote: ↑Fri Apr 08, 2022 12:32 am The only reason I would actually go to Sihnoukville now, is just to catch the ferry over to the Koh Rong islands, something I would like to do again at some point in the future, though even the islands have seen massive development in the last 10 years too

There is nothing left of Sihanoukville/Otres that would make me want to stay more than a night anymore I'm afraid
I don’t understand this mentality.
If not go to the beach. It’s still there and much cleaner than before. Same sunset, same view, same fresh air.

The beach along to Otres now has a busy 4 lane highway & many tall buildings right behind it, rather than empty fields

The Above us Only Sky bar doesn't overlook the sea anymore, as the same 4 lane highway runs in front of it

If I wanted to look at skyscrapers & neon lights, I would go to Hong Kong or New York, rather than Sihanoukville

Virtually all the western bars, restaurants etc along & behind the beach have gone now

Sorry but the changes don't appeal to me, and thats why I don't go there anymore, same as many other western tourists who no longer go there either
Fair enough.
Above Us was never “on“ the beach but was an enjoyable location for sho.
I only went to Martini and Khin Shack, the latter is still there - same owner same food. All the other western bars were shit including the over rated Titanic and terrible Big Kahuna Bar. (Not talking about the Square or Pub Street)

My point is the beach is still there to enjoy. Yes you can go to
NY or HK but we don’t live there. As a beach to visit it’s all good. Took my kid there for the first time and she loved it.

I know there’s always going to be detractors of SHV but do you know what - there was before the changes. Some people just hate Cambodia. Period.
Many of the people who slag it off now don’t even live in Cambodia or haven’t been to SHV for years. You’ll probably find they’re just generally negative.

I think the problem is that Sihanoukville has changed beyond all recognition for anyone who used to frequent the place before the Chinese takeover.
It’s lost all its character, and is now chock full of casinos, fine if you like gambling, but that’s not what folk went to Sihanoukville for earlier.
The dynamic has changed so drastically, with almost all of the Westerners, business owners, residents and tourists having all but disappeared, along with the majority of the Khmers, to be replaced by Chinese to the extent that the place gives the impression of being a Chinese province.
Yeah, the beach is still there, but compare Otres before, when you had all the tiki bars where you could get drinks and food brought to you while you chilled on loungers and fourposter beds right on the beach, to now, it’s a narrow strip of sand and a broad pavement, with food carts selling on the roadside (the last bastion for the Khmers), and block upon block of unfinished (abandoned) apartment buildings crowding the skyline.
I appreciate nothing stays the same forever, but to have so much change, so rapidly, is just too much. It’s a bit like frequenting a favorite pavement cafe, and returning the next day to find that overnight it’s been turned into a Macdonalds.

Pseudonomdeplume · Post by **Pseudonomdeplume** » Fri Apr 08, 2022 12:54 pm

Alex wrote: ↑Wed Apr 06, 2022 1:34 pm I'm almost tempted to visit again, after having avoided the place like the plague for maybe 10 years. Keep the good news coming!

Ditto

mannanman · Post by **mannanman** » Fri Apr 08, 2022 12:57 pm

Chad Sexington wrote: ↑Fri Apr 08, 2022 12:52 pm
mannanman wrote: ↑Fri Apr 08, 2022 12:28 pm
jaynewcastle wrote: ↑Fri Apr 08, 2022 12:08 pm
mannanman wrote: ↑Fri Apr 08, 2022 8:59 am
jaynewcastle wrote: ↑Fri Apr 08, 2022 12:32 am The only reason I would actually go to Sihnoukville now, is just to catch the ferry over to the Koh Rong islands, something I would like to do again at some point in the future, though even the islands have seen massive development in the last 10 years too

There is nothing left of Sihanoukville/Otres that would make me want to stay more than a night anymore I'm afraid
I don’t understand this mentality.
If not go to the beach. It’s still there and much cleaner than before. Same sunset, same view, same fresh air.

The beach along to Otres now has a busy 4 lane highway & many tall buildings right behind it, rather than empty fields

The Above us Only Sky bar doesn't overlook the sea anymore, as the same 4 lane highway runs in front of it

If I wanted to look at skyscrapers & neon lights, I would go to Hong Kong or New York, rather than Sihanoukville

Virtually all the western bars, restaurants etc along & behind the beach have gone now

Sorry but the changes don't appeal to me, and thats why I don't go there anymore, same as many other western tourists who no longer go there either
Fair enough.
Above Us was never “on“ the beach but was an enjoyable location for sho.
I only went to Martini and Khin Shack, the latter is still there - same owner same food. All the other western bars were shit including the over rated Titanic and terrible Big Kahuna Bar. (Not talking about the Square or Pub Street)

My point is the beach is still there to enjoy. Yes you can go to
NY or HK but we don’t live there. As a beach to visit it’s all good. Took my kid there for the first time and she loved it.

I know there’s always going to be detractors of SHV but do you know what - there was before the changes. Some people just hate Cambodia. Period.
Many of the people who slag it off now don’t even live in Cambodia or haven’t been to SHV for years. You’ll probably find they’re just generally negative.
I think the problem is that Sihanoukville has changed beyond all recognition for anyone who used to frequent the place before the Chinese takeover.
It’s lost all its character, and is now chock full of casinos, fine if you like gambling, but that’s not what folk went to Sihanoukville for earlier.
The dynamic has changed so drastically, with almost all of the Westerners, business owners, residents and tourists having all but disappeared, along with the majority of the Khmers, to be replaced by Chinese to the extent that the place gives the impression of being a Chinese province.
Yeah, the beach is still there, but compare Otres before, when you had all the tiki bars where you could get drinks and food brought to you while you chilled on loungers and fourposter beds right on the beach, to now, it’s a narrow strip of sand and a broad pavement, with food carts selling on the roadside (the last bastion for the Khmers), and block upon block of unfinished (abandoned) apartment buildings crowding the skyline.
I appreciate nothing stays the same forever, but to have so much change, so rapidly, is just too much. It’s a bit like frequenting a favorite pavement cafe, and returning the next day to find that overnight it’s been turned into a Macdonalds.

That’s all good points.
There is a lot of Chinese but they’re far outnumbered by locals. I know of many who are doing pretty well (and not casinos) because there’s more money now. Sure it’s totally different now but that’s not a reason to shit talk it no matter what.
When the roads were shit that’s all the expats went on about. Now they’re perfect and not a peep.

I guess everyone will just have their opinion and it’ll not change, including mine. We do have a small piece of land there but I’m trying to see the positives.

Pseudonomdeplume · Post by **Pseudonomdeplume** » Fri Apr 08, 2022 1:35 pm

Having lived there for almost a decade, I have always been uninterested in returning as I felt the nostalgia would be too upsetting to justify the 7/8 hrs return trip, particularly the return after a forgettable exercise.
Regardless of the negative opinions, which are genuinely appreciated - all positivity wouldn't be useful, at all - I am considering a return (once I can psyche myself up for that trip, which I used to do by leaving early and thinking I would be there before most wake up), with the attitude I will be visiting a new place. Cities on the beach can be cool. Barcelona is one of my favourites.
I like PP, but I know many that dislike it so, each to their own. I'll find out for myself.
Thanks to all for the input.

Post by **Username Taken** » Fri Apr 08, 2022 2:30 pm

jaynewcastle wrote: ↑Fri Apr 08, 2022 12:08 pm The Above us Only Sky bar doesn't overlook the sea anymore, as the same 4 lane highway runs in front of it

Didn't know about that one so pulled up Google Maps (image below).

Wow, oh wow! That must surely be environmentally criminal.
Destroyed the natural habitat of crabs, shellfish, and fish. No point trying to fish or snorkel there anymore. Used to be good rock hopping around that area. Distant memories now.

Why the heck don't they go ahead and pave the entire beach so people don't have to get sand in their shoes or on their towel.

If man designed a new world, what a disaster it would be.

jaynewcastle · Post by **jaynewcastle** » Fri Apr 08, 2022 10:36 pm

I think building that 4 lane road around the headland is possibly the worst of all the developments in Sihnoukeville that I've seen

There was absolutely no need for it at all, as it took less than 5mins to drive up from the pier to the roundabout and along the road to the next beach

From the pictures I saw many months ago, it looked like a stagnant pond had been left between the new highway & the previous shoreline ?, haven't seen any recent pictures to confirm that is still the case

My last visit in early Jan 2018, I spend many afternoons at Above us Only Sky, as all the bars for 150m's along the beach next to the pier had been knocked down, & it was just a rubbish-strewn wasteland

Haven't seen any recent pictures of what has happened to the beach area next to the pier. There used to be a green metal sheeting wall blocking off the area where everything had been knocked down. Perhaps its a lovely high-class shopping arcade now ?, or a Chinese casino

, or heavens forbid, another high-rise building

rogerrabbit · Post by **rogerrabbit** » Fri Apr 08, 2022 10:45 pm

jaynewcastle wrote: ↑Fri Apr 08, 2022 12:08 pm
mannanman wrote: ↑Fri Apr 08, 2022 8:59 am
jaynewcastle wrote: ↑Fri Apr 08, 2022 12:32 am The only reason I would actually go to Sihnoukville now, is just to catch the ferry over to the Koh Rong islands, something I would like to do again at some point in the future, though even the islands have seen massive development in the last 10 years too

There is nothing left of Sihanoukville/Otres that would make me want to stay more than a night anymore I'm afraid
I don’t understand this mentality.
If not go to the beach. It’s still there and much cleaner than before. Same sunset, same view, same fresh air.

The beach along to Otres now has a busy 4 lane highway & many tall buildings right behind it, rather than empty fields

The Above us Only Sky bar doesn't overlook the sea anymore, as the same 4 lane highway runs in front of it

If I wanted to look at skyscrapers & neon lights, I would go to Hong Kong or New York, rather than Sihanoukville

Virtually all the western bars, restaurants etc along & behind the beach have gone now

Sorry but the changes don't appeal to me, and thats why I don't go there anymore, same as many other western tourists who no longer go there either

Only 100 meters at the end of Otres is 4 lane wide but the rest of the 2km stretch is just small two lane road, that is weekends so full of parked cars that no one drive over 20km/h. Even weekdays the road is very quiet as everyone use the second beach road.

The new road that goes by Only Sky bar is only two lane narrow road as well. And you can see the sea from there still. Ok, now the sea is 100 meters away when before it was just couples steps from the bar. But plenty of western bars that are close to sea still (not on beach of course anymore as it's illegal).

Also Otres skyscrapers are on the second beach road. So 300-400 meters from the beach. I think there is only one over 5 floor building under construction on first beach road. Rest are old hotels, like Naya etc. Rest just empty fields still.

I really doubt you have visited the place recently?

rogerrabbit · Post by **rogerrabbit** » Fri Apr 08, 2022 10:55 pm

Pseudonomdeplume wrote: ↑Fri Apr 08, 2022 1:35 pm Having lived there for almost a decade, I have always been uninterested in returning as I felt the nostalgia would be too upsetting to justify the 7/8 hrs return trip, particularly the return after a forgettable exercise.
Regardless of the negative opinions, which are genuinely appreciated - all positivity wouldn't be useful, at all - I am considering a return (once I can psyche myself up for that trip, which I used to do by leaving early and thinking I would be there before most wake up), with the attitude I will be visiting a new place. Cities on the beach can be cool. Barcelona is one of my favourites.
I like PP, but I know many that dislike it so, each to their own. I'll find out for myself.
Thanks to all for the input.

June the trip should be only 2 hours one way as the new expressway opens. Parts of it are already open (unofficially) so you can drive on it. But doesn't save anytime yet as you have return to NR4 now and then. Can't wait the whole expressway opens as they have now started to work on the NR4 and parts of it's are pretty rough and dusty.

My trip to Sihanoukville

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